Tracking
the Journey
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Distance to go:
0 Mi
Distance
Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.
Distances here are shown in statute miles.
Approaching the Gateway (Day 38)
Day 38: S83° 22' 45.012", E170° 45' 42.480"
Duration: 8 Hr 30 Min
Daily distance: 19.4 Mi
Distance to go: 1384.6 Mi
Temperature: -7 °C
Wind chill: -14 °C
Altitude: 112 Ft
Today was harder than I'd expected it to be. The weather was fine and the surface wasn't too bad, but as we approach the Gateway, there's evidence of some extraordinary forces at work on the ice itself. There are so many vast glaciers coming down from the Transantarctic Mountains - the Beardmore is I think the largest, though I'm not sure - that the surface of the Ross Ice Shelf started to become noticeably undulating yesterday, warping and buckling under the sort of pressure that my brain can't come close to imagining. Ranging from modest hummocks (that reminded me of the miniature Dales and humpbacked bridges of the title sequence of Postman Pat) to rounded peaks and troughs like a deep-frozen mid-Pacific swell, the low points so deep that we'd lose sight of the surrounding peaks. A couple of the deepest had old, mostly filled-in crevasses at their bottoms, though we crossed their thick, ancient-looking snow bridges safely enough.
It occurred to me today that the last living thing Tarka and I saw (other than each other) was a fat seal lying on the ice near Scott Base, more than a month ago. Since then, no animals, no plants, no birds and no insects. We could be on an alien, lifeless planet. It's a strange thing to feel that lack of life, yet also to be aware of so much energy at work around us; the movement imperceptible yet the forces involved so immense that they are reshaping the surface of the planet.
Another almost 20 mile (31km) day today and we're camped just under 9 miles (roughly 14km) from the Gateway, so we'll be on the Beardmore Glacier tomorrow. It's a small band of rather hard men that have passed this way before us, and part of me (probably the seven-year-old part I mentioned yesterday) feels almost like an imposter and can't quite believe that I'm here and taking these steps.
P.S. here's a photo for Mia of the hole I dig in the porch of the tent each night that lets us sit down.
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Comments
# Jen, December 2nd 2013
A very descriptive post. Great to read what you’re seeing and feeling.
# Jayden Tan, December 2nd 2013
Ben,
It’s great to see the gateway grows larger and larger in the photo updated each day. Is that you or Tarka seen in the photo? Looking forward for the next good news from the two of you.
Best wishes from Penang, Malaysia.
# Ben Kaufman, December 2nd 2013
Ben,
Quick question: Curious if you are targeting a polar arrival on Jan 17th to coincide with the 102nd anniversary of the arrival if the Terra Nova expedition…and if so, given your progress to date, are you ahead/behind schedule?
# Andrea, December 2nd 2013
Great work, great progress, great expectations, great respect for explorers of the past. Everything is great in your words. Great sensibility (taking the picture for Mia) ... you have our best wishes, Ben and Tarka.
Through the Gateway and to the South Pole!
# Richard Pierce, December 2nd 2013
Must be amazing to see one of your preliminary goals come so much closer from one day to the next, regardless of the pressure ridges problem. Good luck through the Gateway and on old Beardsmore. R
# Chris, December 2nd 2013
The Beardmore already, amazing work. Looking forward to photos of the pressure, crevasses, mountains and icefalls if you can take some whilst navigating up there!
# Rosie Vidovix Unsworth, December 2nd 2013
A few months ago when I walked past Captain Scotts permanent exhibition at the Wales Coast Path near Cardiff, I realised how defeated he must have been feeling when he failed to achieve his goal. What he didnt realise though was that he would become so inspirational to so many people around the world.
I am sure if Scott was alive today and could pick a bunch of people to join his team, you would be in it.
# Lorenzo, December 2nd 2013
Great work in getting so far! I hope that you are successful in this try.
# Paul, December 2nd 2013
There is the rounded shape of Mount Hope. 105 yrs almost to the day after discovered and photographed by Shackleton’s party
Paul
Dallas, TX
# Jo, December 2nd 2013
I guess the hard guys before you neither felt much like hard guys themselves until they had made it up the Glacier alive (and down respectively). Good luck for your first steps onto it, and the many that will follow.
# Uncle Pete, December 2nd 2013
‘We could be on an alien, lifeless planet’ - by strange coincidence your position track is also projected onto ‘Google Earth’ Mars, a shadowy expedition in another parallel dimension. Whilst this may well be a software glitch, it is a bonus to be making your mark on another planet! Seriously, an amazing achievement to be part of the very few to step on the Beardmore Glacier, and in such good recent stages. Now you will need precision and good judgement for this stage. Best Wishes.
# Michelle, December 2nd 2013
Go on!! Keep believing. Enjoy the rest. Xx
# Lars Jones, December 2nd 2013
Great adventure! Question, do you use some kind of moisturizer or cream on your face/hands to prevent the skin from “cracking” (I suppose the climate is extremely dry)?.
# Dan Shoemaker, December 2nd 2013
I am looking forward to tomorrow’s post to learn about the details of climbing a glacier while pulling a heavy sled. Do you tie yourselves together as a safety precaution? Are you still on skies? Is it more dangerous going up or coming down? If you slip, how do you keep from getting dragged down the glacier by the sled?
Good luck and happy climbing!
Dan
San Diego
# Offroading Home, December 2nd 2013
Congratulations… Worsley was only a couple days off in his prediction. You’ve got Terra Firma under your feet now! For those using the un-official Scott Expedition Google Earth Resource File (free at: http://offroadinghome.blogspot.com/2013/12/scott-expedition-resource-map-update.html ) it has been updated with a couple new features which make your feat today even more visible.
Make sure the box is checked next to the “MODIS Ice Overlay” in order to see the high definition satellite image overlay of the continent’s ice coverage in such detail that we can actually see you tracking around bumps and valleys.
MODIS is better then viewed at an angle when you’re in mountainous areas so we’ve added small camera icons to make the navigation easier. Click on one and Google Earth will zoom into a 3D view found to be best for that area.
All the other features are there as well: Latitude degree grid markers, enhanced waypoint labels, straight course track line, historic explorers routes and both the Pole and McMurdo web-cams.
# Intrepid, December 2nd 2013
What you endure, becomes a reality compressed into virtual technospace for me. But that’s what is so cool! I really look forward to your reports: where you are, what it’s like, what is being touched beyond the ordinary, what conditions and habits are being liberated as the senses gain clarity, and how you are participating in our awareness as readers. What I hope you read between my lines is deep respect, curiosity,a naivete filling in the imagined spaces between your posts, and the super strong cheerleading desire for both of you, for all of your goals to be reached.
# CaninesCashews, December 2nd 2013
Hi guys,
Another hundred knocked off - quite a spurt over the last few days!
Any change in your diet/food consumption necessary in preparation for the terrain ahead?
My 7yr old son and I dug out the vintage Action Men over the weekend, polar adventures were top of the ‘play list’, luckily we had the original polar clothes and skis, had to knock up a sled/pulk though. Photos to follow!!
Stay safe guys
Gav
# Frodo, December 2nd 2013
Did you consider using dogs for hauling? It would have been authentic.
# Lucas watkins(age 9, December 2nd 2013
How will you celebrate Christmas and what will you eat on Christmas Day?
# Charlotte, December 2nd 2013
Hi Ben and Tarka! Just a quick question, do you cook inside your tent? I’m in year 11 and do DofE and one of the massive ‘don’t's is don’t cook inside your VERY FLAMMABLE tent! But I expect the Antarctic is a very different matter - how do you avoid the fire risk?
Charlotte
# Mal Owen, December 2nd 2013
Found this quote today…... How apt now you are on the Beardmore having joined that small band.
“Nothing is impossible. The word itself says “I’m Possible.” – Audrey Hepburn
# Sheila England , December 2nd 2013
I love reading your posts! They really bring my spirits up.
Sheila
# Dave Collinson , December 2nd 2013
Beardsmore… The stuff of legends.
Grit your teeth for the climb, onwards and upwards .
What would you give for 20 miles a day up there? Just a shade hopeful I suspect!
The pictures are so evocative , the sky is an amazing colour.
Good luck boys ,keep it up
Dr Dave in Lancashire
# ale, December 2nd 2013
POSTMAN PAT!!!! MITICO!!!
What about starting to get into the idea you’re going to be among the top explorers/adventurers of the 21st century??? :-)
I am glad I’m able to read this story in real time! THANK YOU!
# Phil B, December 2nd 2013
I’ve just finished reading Beau Riffenburgh’s excellent book, “Nimrod” - with the story of Shackleton and his companions, the first group to ascend the Beardmore. I hope you guys have an easier time of it than they did. Take care.
# George Chapman, December 3rd 2013
Wow, your getting closer and closer to the mountains. This will be the most difficult I presume but also the most beautiful and exciting time. Like your hole in the floor so you can set down. Take care of yourself and get some extra rest before crossing those mountains.
Following you on FB and Google Earth from sunny Central Florida U.S.A. Todays temperature 68ºF at 7:30 PM EST.
To see a live cam from McMurdo Station
Click here: http://www.usap.gov/videoclipsandmaps/mcmWebCam.cfm
# Vimalatharmaiyah Gnanaruban, December 3rd 2013
Ben and Tarka,
About 1000 ft elevation gain with ups and downs, nearly 20 miles of travel, all this in one day (day 39)? You guys must have some superpowers. Probably leaving a deport helped, but still I’m impressed (On top of what you have been doing day in and day out).
Even though it gives only a tiny fraction of perspective, I’m looking forward to some images,videos and most importantly your take on your experience in the form of words, of the lonely passage with monstrous features that only you are witnessing.
Here is an image I played around with your photos, I made it before you got to the rock. It gives a kind of 3 dimensional panorama of Beardmore.
pic.twitter.com/Ul1rMkqrIE
# Kate Smith, December 18th 2013
Great blog, great photo thanks for posting Cheers Kate