Tracking
the Journey

  • Distance to go: 0 Mi
    Distance

    Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.

    Distances here are shown in statute miles.

Resupply (Day 70)

I'm sorry to have kept you waiting for this update; you might have seen from the tracker that we haven't moved for a while, and you may be wondering what's up. For more than a decade I've been trying to get to the start line of this expedition, and for more than a decade I've been talking about how it would be a journey that was at the very limits of human endurance. Today, in hindsight, I wonder if I really appreciated how prescient and accurate that glib statement was, and yet how little I knew about where that journey would lead me, and what it would take for Tarka and me to dig so deep.

Part of the appeal of this expedition to me was that it seemed just about possible. Roger Mear, one of Robert Swan's team that completed Scott's one-way journey to the Pole in the mid-eighties said they didn't entertain the thought of unsupported return journey as it was plainly "impossible" to haul enough food and fuel. Both Scott and Shackleton, of course, had pre-positioned depots the year before their Pole attempts, and then had further teams hauling provisions for them all the way to the Plateau, peeling away one by one like booster rockets falling back to earth. Scott himself didn't put his own sledge harness on until he got to the base of the Beardmore Glacier, and at most his men pulled just over 90kg each.

By contrast, Tarka and I pulled 200kg each at the start, heavier loads per man than Scott's weakest two ponies each dragged. Peter McDowell, one of the senior directors of ALE, described it as "Fifty percent harder" than anything he had seen in his time supporting Antarctic expeditions. We gambled on getting faster as our loads lightened, and based on our training and experience, Tarka and I had secretly set ourselves the goal of covering 42km -a full marathon- per day on our return from the Pole to the Beardmore. We planned our food and fuel to match, going light and -we hoped- fast, with almost no leeway for error or a let-up in pace. This is why we did such a big day to turn at the Pole, and why we've had no time to rest properly since. We had two-and-a-half hours' sleep on our Pole day, and haven't had more than five hour's sleep for nearly two months. Our only full rest day was 55 days ago. The toll this effort has taken has been quite something, and the speed we hoped for never came.

Our near-empty sledges still felt heavy and the energy that carried us up the Beardmore, and indeed to the Pole itself in record time despite dragging more than anyone in history, started to wane dramatically in the last few days. What's more, we've been running lower on food as we failed to meet our mileage targets. Six days ago we started to eat half rations, and I've felt shattered every day since, aware that I was depleting my body at a rate that might have been reckless. My stomach growled permanently, my ribs became more prominent by the day, my legs were painfully weak and my mind and thoughts and decision-making grew foggy and dim. On our second day of half-rations I got dangerously cold when I had to remove my outer jacket in the middle of a storm to add more insulating layers, and it was only Tarka's help -zipping up my jackets like I was a toddler while my cold hands hung useless by my side- that got me out of trouble and through a very dark day indeed. 

I've been reluctant to say so (sorry mum!) but we've both been on the ragged edge for a while now, and on New Year's Eve, we set out on what was to prove the hardest day of the expedition. It was Tarka's turn this time to struggle, and I'd reached a state where I was barely able to realise it. The windchill was -45 degrees centigrade when I recorded it, and we stayed outside for more than 13 hours, on fifty percent of the food I'd intended and wearing almost all the clothes we had with us. At breaks we would eat halved energy bars and our normally-sweet drinks tasted like lukewarm dishwater with a hint of lemon. Towards the eighth or ninth hour Tarka's normally rock-steady metronomic pace started to become erratic and he seemed to stagger and stumble more than usual on ridges and divots in the snow surface. He stopped mid-session, in a howling blizzard, to remove his outer gilet (the Primaloft-insulated Mountain Equipment Compressor vests that have served us so well here) and flipped back his hood as if he were too hot. I know -as a professional leader of expeditions to the coldest places on the planet- that these are tell-tale signs of hypothermia, yet I was on the limit myself and failed to react. All I can remember from that afternoon that drifted into evening, with the dim sun slowly wheeling around us and the horizon erasing itself and reappearing again in the whirling fog of spindrift, was being unable to think of anything more than the battle raging in my head against the part of me that wanted so desperately to stop. Just to lean my shoulders on my ski poles and slump forwards against the resistance of my harness and rest, and to hell with the consequences. I wondered at times if I fell over whether I'd have the strength to stand up again, the energy to yell for Tarka, or whether he'd even notice me calling over the noise of the wind.

When I took over the lead I kept turning back to see Tarka -normally right on my heels- drifting further behind me. I stopped a few times to let him catch up, but it was too cold for me to wait for more than a minute or two before I started shivering, so I raised a single ski pole, he raised his in reply -a signal we've often used here- and I shuffled on. After doing this a few times, with Tarka receding as if the horizon was sucking him backward like quicksand, he stopped raising his pole. I waited, but by now he was a tiny dark speck in the white that took forever to grow. I unclipped my harness and started to put the tent up, feeling dizzy and breathless myself, and taking what seemed like ages to match the poles to their corresponding fabric sleeves, like a drunk taking some sort of coordination test. "Sorry I'm late", said Tarka as he arrived, but it sounded like someone else entirely, his words mumbled and slow.

As we finished slowly setting up camp, I saw he was fumbling in his giant outer mittens with the plastic buckles that strap our sledges closed. "I can't feel my hands", he said through a mask encrusted with ice, his shoulders slumped forwards. As we zipped ourselves into the porch of the tent to take our boots and outer layers off before climbing into our sleeping bags, we saw that the tips of his thumbs were at least badly frostnipped, if not lost entirely to frostbite. I remember feeling a mixture of fear and anger, both at him and at myself for letting this happen. I pulled up my jacket and fleece so he could warm his hands in my armpits, and to my relief the colour and circulation started to return.  We ate our watery half-dinners in near-silence and fell asleep exhausted and cold, knowing we would have to match the same distance the next day.

Our depot was still 74km away and we had barely more than half a day's food to reach it; eight energy bars each, half a breakfast and half an evening meal. 16km into the following day Tarka started to slow again as he led, before stopping entirely and waving me forward to talk. "I feel really weak in the legs again", he said. "OK. What do you want to do?" I answered snappily, before realising this was on me. I came here to be challenged and tested, to give my all to the hardest task I have ever set myself and to the biggest dream I have ever had. And here was the crux. This was the moment that mattered, not standing by the Pole having my photograph taken, but standing next to my friend, in a howling gale, miles away from anyone or anything. "Let's put the tent up", I said, "I've got an idea".

My idea was to call for a resupply. To have more food and fuel flown to our position so that we could rest and recover before finishing this journey. A decision that changes the status of this expedition from "unsupported" or "unassisted" or whatever semantics you wish to choose to the opposite. Part of me also feels it inevitable that we and this journey would face critics even if we'd done it in period clothing eating pemmican and pony meat. Yet in an instant I realised that my and Tarka's lives are not something I wanted to gamble with, and that we had given our all. We were lucky that neither of us had collapsed the day before, and I knew we couldn't possibly have hoped to recover on our meagre rations from the physical holes we'd dug ourselves into.

At the other end of the world, on the other end of a crackling and hissing satellite phone line, our expedition manager Andy Ward sprang into action, and things happened incredibly quickly, with a ski-plane carrying eight days' of rations landing twelve hours later. The weather worsened as we waited and I feared the flight would be aborted, or that a bag would be air-dropped at speed and lost in the blizzard, but in a beautiful twist of what some might call fate, the pilot was Troy, the same man that picked me up from the Arctic Ocean after my 72-day solo expedition nearly ten years ago, and in my eyes the finest polar pilot in the world. The Twin Otter appeared through a tiny hole in the rolling cloud and swang over us once before landing on the ridged and uneven snow surface and taxiing right up to our tent, its wing-tip almost above our roof. The wind was still blasting and the plane's skis were almost hidden under the blowing snow. "I'm sorry about the weather", I said to Troy, amazed that he'd been able to land. "Oh, it was fine", he replied modestly.

The hours we spent waiting were, I fear, dark ones for Tarka. He seemed a broken man. "It'll look like my fault", he said, "and that's a good thing for you." This was Tarka through and through. Weeks ago he said humbly, "If there are media at the airport when we get back, I'm happy to help with the bags while you talk to them." He finally admitted last night that when I was struggling (and if I'm honest now, on the verge of wanting to quit) a few weeks ago he'd taken food bags from my sledge while I was in the tent to help lighten my load without telling me, so he'd been pulling more weight than me for weeks.

Tarka is the hero here, and the irony of our situation is that I would never have made it to this point without his herculean efforts; his giving everything he has to this goal. I'm proud of how deep we have each dug, and I am amazed and humbled by Tarka's sacrifice. He has pushed (or indeed pulled) himself until he dropped, and I'm also as exhausted as I've ever been. For weeks now I have slept fitfully and woken up cold. We are both alarmingly lean, and we have both struggled for a while to maintain trains of thought or decent conversations. I suspect my writing has been going downhill too.

And now we are lying here resting, like two new men after ten hours' sleep, full-bellied and warm again for the first time in weeks, before we move north again to complete this unfinished journey. Our status has changed, but how little that means to me now. Scott didn't wear his harness until the Beardmore and would have been "supported" in modern polar parlance. I don't think we made any mistakes, and I don't think we could have done anything more, or pulled any more food up here. We travelled 5.6km per day at the start with 200kg per man, greater loads than each of Scott's weakest ponies hauled.

I know a few commentators have suggested that we've been "lucky" with weather and surface compared to a century ago, but I don't believe this is true. Our luck is in having GPS units that allow us to ski blind into whiteouts, in having synthetic skins on our skis that allow us to grip, and in having the nutrition and fitness and clothing to survive dragging loads that would have been unthinkable in that era. We have had no choice but to move every day, whatever the weather, for more than 70 hours per week of intense physical exertion, twice as much as a Tour de France cyclist, over ten weeks and not three.

Now my head is clearer and my body is recovering, I think of status and records and achievement and impermanence. Every gold medal one day ends up in a collectors' cabinet, an auction lot or a drawer in an antique shop. Trophies oxidise, the ribbons of rosettes curl and fade. I don't know where my proudly-won Scout badges are now. I hope our journey has not been diminished in your eyes now it is "imperfect". Yet of course for us humans, perfection can never really be reached, contentment is either here today, with the striving and the mess we all inhabit, all open loops and half-finished lists and could-do-better-next-times, or we will never find it. And the biggest lessons -to me at least- of this very long, very hard walk, are perhaps that compassion is more important than glory. Friendship and kindness and taking care of each other -like Tarka secretly removing weight from my sledge- matter more than achievement or status. The joy of being outdoors and alive in the wild, pushing ourselves harder than anyone will ever understand, will I think in time prove more wholesome and satisfying than the pride of any public recognition on our homecoming.

We're resting up today, we're safe, we're well, we'll do a shorter day north towards our mid-plateau depot tomorrow and we'll carry on home from there, retracing our steps to Ross Island. We're still in the process of making a journey that's never been done before, and I hope you'll still keep following. Tarka and I are humbled and grateful for your interest and support, and I am more thankful than I know how to say for Intel and Land Rover and all of our other partners for standing by us in our most trying days. Onwards.

Comments

# Marina Kleinwort, January 3rd 2014

Ben and Tarka.  I have just reread this blog for the 3rd time and am more overwhelmed with each reading that you can write so articulately at a time that is so obviously physically and mentally taking you both to your limits.  I am hugely relieved you had enough left in the tank to make that call to Andy.  The only thing that shows to me is that you are just as brave now as you were at the outset (if not more so).  You are both heroes in my eyes.  Be safe and recharge for the next phase.  I am bowled over by what you have done thus far.  Enormous hugs from Cape Town.  X

# Curly Texan, January 3rd 2014

I received my Expedition t-shirt today in the mail. I’ll going to wear it tomorrow and tell everyone I meet about the 2 brave men marching home as they complete an amazing athletic challenge of perseverance, strength and humility. You are still superheroes to me. March on!

# James Scott, January 3rd 2014

This must go down as one of the best decisions ever made, in the most challenging of circumstances.  Well done chaps, now finish the job in style!

# Graham O, January 3rd 2014

With regards the criticisms on here recently and earlier with regards where are the depots, what is in them etc. I’ve worked with Ben and many other expeditions for over 10 years and there is always some secrecy involved in them. People spend years of their lives investing time and effort in getting an expedition off the ground. Certainly Ben and Tarka have taken their past expeditions and learnt from them in terms of nutrition, equipment, clothing etc. They have spent much time developing an expedition strategy which they hope will work. I say hope, because that is the best one can achieve in advance. It’s not until you get on the ground that you find out if your strategy is going to work and remember, just a day’s bad weather or a day of feeling unwell can upset the best laid plans. You can plan for such things, but until it happens, you never know the knock on effects.
But having developed that strategy, according to some people on here, you then have to share it with everyone else; it is public property even to people who have no stake in the expedition. If someone has spent 10 years planning it, he/she owns that information and I don’t see any reason to share it in detail. It would be nice to know, but the golden age of exploration is over and rarely are books published these days with full equipment lists such as some of Blashford Snell’s books. And if you make the planning public,someone else with more money may come along, move 20kg of food further up the route and achieve in 6 months what others spend years developing. Big expeditions need big planning, not just pinching someone else’s unpaid-for work.

To Ben and Tarka,
Glad to hear you are resting and recovering. Staying alive is the number one priority. When you get back to Scott’s hut, you will still have achieved much.

Graham and the girls.

# John Brain, January 3rd 2014

Thank you for this helpful contribution Graham. I am a massive supporter of the expedition and add my moral support to that of many like-minded others. I am also ‘elderly’ and have no direct experience of what Ben and Tarka are so valiantly attempting, but I have read all things Antarctic extensively and get great vicarious satisfaction from this venture.

My problem is that when I read all Ben’s material on preparation, I was left with one or two big unanswered questions, and searched vainly for answers. One was the major issue of how you carried sufficient food for 1800 miles, unsupported and without pre-placed depots. But I just trusted that those who were involved in the planning had obviously addressed the issue in detail. Given that Ben’ wonderful blogs have from the start seemed so open and honest, I rather assumed that we were being told everything. So it came as rather a shock, when the news came of the resupply, and a greater shock to learn of their precarious position on half rations for several days, of which we knew nothing.

Of course we should all respect their decision to tell us what they want and we armchair observers have no right for anything more. They have clearly made the right call, as did Shackleton when he decided to about turn short of the Pole. And we all send them our great hopes for a successful return journey.

# Graham O, January 3rd 2014

John Brain,
I think the problem of “not being told the full story” comes from the world we live in with TV dominated by reality series and so called “celebrities” appearing in the media for the most mundane reasons. While Ben and Tarka are blogging in order to entertain and inform us, I don’t see that they have any obligation to tell us, the public, everything they do or think.
I also don’t understand the word “shocked” to hear of the resupply; a word many have used. Disappointment for them certainly, along with relief that they took the second hardest decision (abandonment being most hard), but shocked is just too strong a word.
For myself, I’ve read all the blogs and quite a few comments and with inside information, there was only one indication that something may not be right. However on a long expedition like this which is by no means guaranteed success, there will always be things which aren’t right. How many of us have got into situations in the mountains which afterwards we just laugh about, but which could just as easily have killed us? At what point do you tell other people? “I’m not happy with this” or “I’m going back” or “We’re going to die”? We will all have different levels and I’m sure that to Ben and Tarka, a few days of reduced rations was acceptable and a considered part of their trek.

# Nansen, January 3rd 2014

Graham O:  I’m sorry - there has been a lack or transparency on this expedition. It did come as a total shock to all followers that Ben and Tarka ran out of food. At no time did they ever indicate that this was likely.  It makes the earlier blogs a little spurious.

# Intrepid, January 3rd 2014

My question is more about being a commentator, blogging and responding to posts, and whether there are boundaries and appropriate responses. You can see how influential the posts from Ben and Tarka’s expedition have been. People young and old are tuning in and becoming impacted as well as motivated in various ways. It is human to feel empathic and respond emotionally to the largeness of the quest as well as the details of each day. I have been captivated by Ben’s blogging and write about what each blog sparks in me. I consider my actions cheering for an incredible physical endurance feat. Even though I am a bystander the virtual reality connects to the realness of my excitement turning the space between imagined and actual into a fine line. I do not wish to step over this line. I will continue letting Ben and Tarka know they are being followed, listened to, and have my support. Sometimes I play around, sometimes I share a little about my view, and all the time I cheer and wish them well.  But still, I wonder what is appropriate to share.  In hindsight I wish I had stepped forward and spoken what was coming up for me >>>  but is it my place to do so?  I am not part of the expedition yet I care very much for Ben and Tarka’s welfare.  Learning from experience, I can say that if there is a next time, anywhere, with anyone, I will encourage myself to choose to speak up because it seems to bother me in hindsight when I don’t. Is it wrong to say what I think or correct to feel wrong about withholding something that may have potential to make a difference.

I do not make promises I can’t keep. I can say I plan to bend the line, move the post, and share what’s up, as that seems to be the most honest way to interact.

# Jörg Diekmann, January 3rd 2014

You guys are absolute heroes. Both of you. It’s still unimaginable to me the pain you have to fight every day in this exhausting and desolate wilderness. Strength to you, and thank you for sharing this journey with such eloquence!

# Laurence B Jacobs, January 3rd 2014

Shackleton turned round less than 100 miles from the pole on the Nimrod expedition, that act was perceived as heroic, intelligent and extremely brave. Your decision to call for resupply is no less so. Wishing you a Tarka an uneventful return.

# Simone Deyzel, January 3rd 2014

It has been wonderful to have been allowed to follow this journey. I was disappointed to see the plane not because of the resupply - but because the previous posts never disclosed the trials you were facing to the severity that came to light in this entry. There’s no shame in calling in the resupply, and I commend you for only taking enough to take you through recovery and to the next depo so that you can continue the journey. It’s heroic in that you haven’t quit considering what you’ve been through. I would just have appreciated if we were let in on the full picture sooner.

# Damian, January 3rd 2014

That was the most touching account of your recent struggle that could have been produced. You and Tarka have pushed yourselves to the limit, realised in good time how close you were to buckling and acted on that information- you can be at no fault for doing the right thing.

There is a reason this journey has not been completed since- because it is very hard. The fact you two are well on your way to completing it, irrespective of the way in which you do it, is achievement in itself and you should not let that be undermined in anyway. 

As men of daring and challenge you will be disappointed that you couldn’t complete the challenge in the way you wished, but as you acknowledged, things don’t always go to plan but that doesn’t extinguish the inspiration you are providing for people all over the world that there are still things to be conquered!

Rest up and keep going. There’s plenty of belief in you both in the UK and around the world to get the job done!

D

# Joe Wheatley, January 3rd 2014

Best wishes chaps, stay strong and safe. Full respect for the decision you made, your journey and struggle are all the more inspiring for it.

# Michele P, January 3rd 2014

I have been avidly following your journey since a friend (Gav) told me about it in November but have never posted a comment before…after reading today’s Blog I just had to. What you have both achieved to date is remarkable and inspirational and the events of the last couple of days don’t change that at all. Thank you for sharing your deep feelings with us, it has made me and I am sure others understand even more what you are going through. You are right to be proud of how far you have both dug, it is far far deeper than most of us could ever contemplate let alone achieve. Keep safe and keep strong during the rest of your journey home.

# Ray Cassidy, January 3rd 2014

As Catherine says - “Right decision”!  There is no point sticking to an artificial idea and not surviving to talk about it in the pub!  Stunning effort!  Stunning victory of common sense.  Just really pleased you had the means to alter the plan in the light of circumstances.  No point dying on the ice!
Good luck with the rest of the effort!

# Dom Jackman, January 3rd 2014

Don’t normally write comments on blogs but felt compelled to this time. I’ve been following your journey and as a normal civi found it tough to visualise or imagine what it is like out there and quite the enormity of the task you are trying to achieve.

I have no idea what pulling a 200kg+ sled over ice is like or what -50 feels like or what 14 hours of extreme exercise everyday for 2 months is like - hell who does apart from you guys! That blog put the effort into some kind of context really well though. What an incredibly well written piece. I hope you don’t beat yourselves up too much for getting a food drop. Keep going what an epic effort.

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