Tracking
the Journey
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Distance to go:
0 Mi
Distance
Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.
Distances here are shown in statute miles.
Resupply (Day 70)
I'm sorry to have kept you waiting for this update; you might have seen from the tracker that we haven't moved for a while, and you may be wondering what's up. For more than a decade I've been trying to get to the start line of this expedition, and for more than a decade I've been talking about how it would be a journey that was at the very limits of human endurance. Today, in hindsight, I wonder if I really appreciated how prescient and accurate that glib statement was, and yet how little I knew about where that journey would lead me, and what it would take for Tarka and me to dig so deep.
Part of the appeal of this expedition to me was that it seemed just about possible. Roger Mear, one of Robert Swan's team that completed Scott's one-way journey to the Pole in the mid-eighties said they didn't entertain the thought of unsupported return journey as it was plainly "impossible" to haul enough food and fuel. Both Scott and Shackleton, of course, had pre-positioned depots the year before their Pole attempts, and then had further teams hauling provisions for them all the way to the Plateau, peeling away one by one like booster rockets falling back to earth. Scott himself didn't put his own sledge harness on until he got to the base of the Beardmore Glacier, and at most his men pulled just over 90kg each.
By contrast, Tarka and I pulled 200kg each at the start, heavier loads per man than Scott's weakest two ponies each dragged. Peter McDowell, one of the senior directors of ALE, described it as "Fifty percent harder" than anything he had seen in his time supporting Antarctic expeditions. We gambled on getting faster as our loads lightened, and based on our training and experience, Tarka and I had secretly set ourselves the goal of covering 42km -a full marathon- per day on our return from the Pole to the Beardmore. We planned our food and fuel to match, going light and -we hoped- fast, with almost no leeway for error or a let-up in pace. This is why we did such a big day to turn at the Pole, and why we've had no time to rest properly since. We had two-and-a-half hours' sleep on our Pole day, and haven't had more than five hour's sleep for nearly two months. Our only full rest day was 55 days ago. The toll this effort has taken has been quite something, and the speed we hoped for never came.
Our near-empty sledges still felt heavy and the energy that carried us up the Beardmore, and indeed to the Pole itself in record time despite dragging more than anyone in history, started to wane dramatically in the last few days. What's more, we've been running lower on food as we failed to meet our mileage targets. Six days ago we started to eat half rations, and I've felt shattered every day since, aware that I was depleting my body at a rate that might have been reckless. My stomach growled permanently, my ribs became more prominent by the day, my legs were painfully weak and my mind and thoughts and decision-making grew foggy and dim. On our second day of half-rations I got dangerously cold when I had to remove my outer jacket in the middle of a storm to add more insulating layers, and it was only Tarka's help -zipping up my jackets like I was a toddler while my cold hands hung useless by my side- that got me out of trouble and through a very dark day indeed.
I've been reluctant to say so (sorry mum!) but we've both been on the ragged edge for a while now, and on New Year's Eve, we set out on what was to prove the hardest day of the expedition. It was Tarka's turn this time to struggle, and I'd reached a state where I was barely able to realise it. The windchill was -45 degrees centigrade when I recorded it, and we stayed outside for more than 13 hours, on fifty percent of the food I'd intended and wearing almost all the clothes we had with us. At breaks we would eat halved energy bars and our normally-sweet drinks tasted like lukewarm dishwater with a hint of lemon. Towards the eighth or ninth hour Tarka's normally rock-steady metronomic pace started to become erratic and he seemed to stagger and stumble more than usual on ridges and divots in the snow surface. He stopped mid-session, in a howling blizzard, to remove his outer gilet (the Primaloft-insulated Mountain Equipment Compressor vests that have served us so well here) and flipped back his hood as if he were too hot. I know -as a professional leader of expeditions to the coldest places on the planet- that these are tell-tale signs of hypothermia, yet I was on the limit myself and failed to react. All I can remember from that afternoon that drifted into evening, with the dim sun slowly wheeling around us and the horizon erasing itself and reappearing again in the whirling fog of spindrift, was being unable to think of anything more than the battle raging in my head against the part of me that wanted so desperately to stop. Just to lean my shoulders on my ski poles and slump forwards against the resistance of my harness and rest, and to hell with the consequences. I wondered at times if I fell over whether I'd have the strength to stand up again, the energy to yell for Tarka, or whether he'd even notice me calling over the noise of the wind.
When I took over the lead I kept turning back to see Tarka -normally right on my heels- drifting further behind me. I stopped a few times to let him catch up, but it was too cold for me to wait for more than a minute or two before I started shivering, so I raised a single ski pole, he raised his in reply -a signal we've often used here- and I shuffled on. After doing this a few times, with Tarka receding as if the horizon was sucking him backward like quicksand, he stopped raising his pole. I waited, but by now he was a tiny dark speck in the white that took forever to grow. I unclipped my harness and started to put the tent up, feeling dizzy and breathless myself, and taking what seemed like ages to match the poles to their corresponding fabric sleeves, like a drunk taking some sort of coordination test. "Sorry I'm late", said Tarka as he arrived, but it sounded like someone else entirely, his words mumbled and slow.
As we finished slowly setting up camp, I saw he was fumbling in his giant outer mittens with the plastic buckles that strap our sledges closed. "I can't feel my hands", he said through a mask encrusted with ice, his shoulders slumped forwards. As we zipped ourselves into the porch of the tent to take our boots and outer layers off before climbing into our sleeping bags, we saw that the tips of his thumbs were at least badly frostnipped, if not lost entirely to frostbite. I remember feeling a mixture of fear and anger, both at him and at myself for letting this happen. I pulled up my jacket and fleece so he could warm his hands in my armpits, and to my relief the colour and circulation started to return. We ate our watery half-dinners in near-silence and fell asleep exhausted and cold, knowing we would have to match the same distance the next day.
Our depot was still 74km away and we had barely more than half a day's food to reach it; eight energy bars each, half a breakfast and half an evening meal. 16km into the following day Tarka started to slow again as he led, before stopping entirely and waving me forward to talk. "I feel really weak in the legs again", he said. "OK. What do you want to do?" I answered snappily, before realising this was on me. I came here to be challenged and tested, to give my all to the hardest task I have ever set myself and to the biggest dream I have ever had. And here was the crux. This was the moment that mattered, not standing by the Pole having my photograph taken, but standing next to my friend, in a howling gale, miles away from anyone or anything. "Let's put the tent up", I said, "I've got an idea".
My idea was to call for a resupply. To have more food and fuel flown to our position so that we could rest and recover before finishing this journey. A decision that changes the status of this expedition from "unsupported" or "unassisted" or whatever semantics you wish to choose to the opposite. Part of me also feels it inevitable that we and this journey would face critics even if we'd done it in period clothing eating pemmican and pony meat. Yet in an instant I realised that my and Tarka's lives are not something I wanted to gamble with, and that we had given our all. We were lucky that neither of us had collapsed the day before, and I knew we couldn't possibly have hoped to recover on our meagre rations from the physical holes we'd dug ourselves into.
At the other end of the world, on the other end of a crackling and hissing satellite phone line, our expedition manager Andy Ward sprang into action, and things happened incredibly quickly, with a ski-plane carrying eight days' of rations landing twelve hours later. The weather worsened as we waited and I feared the flight would be aborted, or that a bag would be air-dropped at speed and lost in the blizzard, but in a beautiful twist of what some might call fate, the pilot was Troy, the same man that picked me up from the Arctic Ocean after my 72-day solo expedition nearly ten years ago, and in my eyes the finest polar pilot in the world. The Twin Otter appeared through a tiny hole in the rolling cloud and swang over us once before landing on the ridged and uneven snow surface and taxiing right up to our tent, its wing-tip almost above our roof. The wind was still blasting and the plane's skis were almost hidden under the blowing snow. "I'm sorry about the weather", I said to Troy, amazed that he'd been able to land. "Oh, it was fine", he replied modestly.
The hours we spent waiting were, I fear, dark ones for Tarka. He seemed a broken man. "It'll look like my fault", he said, "and that's a good thing for you." This was Tarka through and through. Weeks ago he said humbly, "If there are media at the airport when we get back, I'm happy to help with the bags while you talk to them." He finally admitted last night that when I was struggling (and if I'm honest now, on the verge of wanting to quit) a few weeks ago he'd taken food bags from my sledge while I was in the tent to help lighten my load without telling me, so he'd been pulling more weight than me for weeks.
Tarka is the hero here, and the irony of our situation is that I would never have made it to this point without his herculean efforts; his giving everything he has to this goal. I'm proud of how deep we have each dug, and I am amazed and humbled by Tarka's sacrifice. He has pushed (or indeed pulled) himself until he dropped, and I'm also as exhausted as I've ever been. For weeks now I have slept fitfully and woken up cold. We are both alarmingly lean, and we have both struggled for a while to maintain trains of thought or decent conversations. I suspect my writing has been going downhill too.
And now we are lying here resting, like two new men after ten hours' sleep, full-bellied and warm again for the first time in weeks, before we move north again to complete this unfinished journey. Our status has changed, but how little that means to me now. Scott didn't wear his harness until the Beardmore and would have been "supported" in modern polar parlance. I don't think we made any mistakes, and I don't think we could have done anything more, or pulled any more food up here. We travelled 5.6km per day at the start with 200kg per man, greater loads than each of Scott's weakest ponies hauled.
I know a few commentators have suggested that we've been "lucky" with weather and surface compared to a century ago, but I don't believe this is true. Our luck is in having GPS units that allow us to ski blind into whiteouts, in having synthetic skins on our skis that allow us to grip, and in having the nutrition and fitness and clothing to survive dragging loads that would have been unthinkable in that era. We have had no choice but to move every day, whatever the weather, for more than 70 hours per week of intense physical exertion, twice as much as a Tour de France cyclist, over ten weeks and not three.
Now my head is clearer and my body is recovering, I think of status and records and achievement and impermanence. Every gold medal one day ends up in a collectors' cabinet, an auction lot or a drawer in an antique shop. Trophies oxidise, the ribbons of rosettes curl and fade. I don't know where my proudly-won Scout badges are now. I hope our journey has not been diminished in your eyes now it is "imperfect". Yet of course for us humans, perfection can never really be reached, contentment is either here today, with the striving and the mess we all inhabit, all open loops and half-finished lists and could-do-better-next-times, or we will never find it. And the biggest lessons -to me at least- of this very long, very hard walk, are perhaps that compassion is more important than glory. Friendship and kindness and taking care of each other -like Tarka secretly removing weight from my sledge- matter more than achievement or status. The joy of being outdoors and alive in the wild, pushing ourselves harder than anyone will ever understand, will I think in time prove more wholesome and satisfying than the pride of any public recognition on our homecoming.
We're resting up today, we're safe, we're well, we'll do a shorter day north towards our mid-plateau depot tomorrow and we'll carry on home from there, retracing our steps to Ross Island. We're still in the process of making a journey that's never been done before, and I hope you'll still keep following. Tarka and I are humbled and grateful for your interest and support, and I am more thankful than I know how to say for Intel and Land Rover and all of our other partners for standing by us in our most trying days. Onwards.
Comments
# George Chapman, January 3rd 2014
I wish these post were organized in reverse order. It takes a long time going from page to page to find the newest unless you figure out the trick of using this link and add twelve more to the link ever hour or so. http://scottexpedition.com/blog/resupply/P204/#comments.
Notice the 204 in this link.
There are 12 comments per page.
I do keep up mainly via e-mail
# AndreaTP, January 3rd 2014
Thank you George, I’m using that workaround too, it helps a lot but of course doesn’t substitute navigation, on mobile devices it’s not easy to handle.
Andrea
# dj, January 4th 2014
George… good comment. Although, they seem to have it set up to print 12 MAIN threads per page and sort of just adds in any ‘replies’ to that thread. When I counted the other night (at 170) some pages had 12, others had as many as 22 - now when I just counted, one had 26 (one where Kristoffer hit a nerve and got landed on.)
# George Chapman, January 4th 2014
dj
Yes after I made that comment I thought about the reply’s, don’t know how many of those but quite a few. It’s been a interesting day.
# George Chapman, January 4th 2014
#dj
Checking my email I see there has been a total of 252 comments and or reply’s on this blog. As of 10:49PM EST.
# Mal Owen, January 4th 2014
Cheers George , has made navigating a little easier :-)
# Jim Scott, January 3rd 2014
My wife and I have followed your herculean attempt from the start. I have always had difficulty wrapping my head around the magnitude of the demands of such a journey. The unrelenting cold and daily physical exertion are far beyond the comprehension of anyone who has not experienced them. The fact that you needed to arrange a resupply does nothing to diminish what you are accomplishing; instead it demonstrates that your stamina and determination are matched with good sense and intelligence.
This current post is the most finely crafted piece of spontaneous writing I have ever read. Its poignance and heartfelt emotion touch anyone’s heart who has witnessed the immensity of what you and Tarka have achieved. (Apparently only Kristoffer missed it) Be well and carry on; if anything our admiration for you both is only increased.
# Rebecca, January 3rd 2014
Well done. You made the right call. You’ve done right by each other, and you’ve given your all. Anyone who would criticize your decision doesn’t have the sense of imagination or empathy to understand what you’re experiencing. If Scott had had a sat. phone, you know he would have called in help to save his team’s life. There is no doubt that we’ll keep following you. Stay safe and best of luck to you both on the rest of your return.
# Mark Evans, January 3rd 2014
Ben/Tarka - you’re both doing brilliantly well. Clearly food availability is a factor that drives you on each day, but try and enjoy where you are, as all too soon you’ll be bored at home, planning the next adventure .... was in a similar situation in the middle of Greenland some time ago, when we made the decision simply to slow down, and enjoy the place we’d dreamt of being for two years, rather than rush and get it over with. What remains is no walk in the park, but you will succeed. Enjoy what remains as much as you can.
# George Chapman, January 3rd 2014
Can someone tell me what’s going on today on the ice. Are the guys moving or have they stopped for the day. It appears from Google Earth that they have only moved 7 miles since their last blog. I’m not sure if the Google Earth tracking equipment is working or what. Where is Andy? We need a little more info from the support team.
# Kristoffer, January 3rd 2014
George, the tracker has updated again, and the ruler tool show the guy have moved 9.16 miles today.
# George Chapman, January 3rd 2014
You’re correct Krist I see now it has moved. Normally by this time they would have progressed nearly 20 miles. I know they took yesterday off but unless I’m confused they should have moved more today. There has been nearly 200 comments in the last day but for some reason the support team is saying nothing about what is happening. We have one blog here a day and the same blog is on Twitter and FB. With all these ways to communicate with us I’m surprised we cannot get but one official comment per day. I’m sure a lot of folks are concerned about the team and I would think we could get three or four tweets a day from the support team. But now I guess I’m complaining. Do you think the support team gets in touch with the guys on the ice every several hours or do you think they are only hearing from the team once a day?
# Kristoffer, January 3rd 2014
Actually, the support team has posted once, to say that they were not evacuated. I also wonder why they have not made more progress today. I suppose we’ll get an answer eventually.
# CaninesCashews, January 3rd 2014
George, I don’t know any more than you, but I think Ben said at the end of his blog they were doing a shorter day today - maybe this is a half day which would be about right on the mileage.
I’m sure we’ll know more tomorrow.
# George Chapman, January 3rd 2014
O yes, I do now remember that comment. A lot of comments here today. Trying to keep up. You did not answer my question. Do you think the support team gets in touch with the guys on the ice every several hours or do you think they are only hearing from the team once a day?
# Kristoffer, January 3rd 2014
Silly me, I forgot to answer. I honestly do not know whether the support team talks once per day or multiple times per day.
# George Chapman, January 3rd 2014
Thanks CaninesCashews
I get a little nervous with Google Earth having problems the last week and then no info from the team. I wonder what the emergency plan is if they should loose all their technology which I know they were having problems with last week. Can they shoot up some emergency flares and hope to get someone’s attention.
# Scott Expedition Team , January 3rd 2014
Ben and Tarka did a shorter day than usual covering just over 9 miles in 4 hours as per the tracker. They are now camped for the evening and will continue their journey tomorrow.
# dj, January 4th 2014
Really… “team”.... how hard would it be to answer the simple question: “how often have you set up the tracking ‘pings’ to come?” Is that “proprietary information” that you want to keep to yourself for some reason? I know you can add a track-point manually whenever you decide to (like you did at the south pole), but the automatic portion that we watch - how often do they come?
You state that they traveled for “four hours per the tracker.” How then did the track that was produced get SIX track points (counting ONLY those BEFORE forward motion ceased)? Do you have it set up to ‘ping’ at other times than by hour time intervals or set at some other number?
I don’t want you to divulge secret information that you think is gonna let someone steal your caches or something; but, really, have a heart on an old mans’ need to understand the world and how it works.
# Hannah White, January 3rd 2014
Ben, you have been my friend for many years now and this has been your dream for far longer than that. A challenge, an adventure, an expedition is about many things. Everyone talks about success, but how does one define success? Crossing a finish line, reaching a geographical point, going further than you thought possible? Maybe all those things, but most importantly it is what you and Tarka have demonstrated over the last few weeks. It’s about integrity, commitment, perseverance. Your journey and the decisions you have made are truly humbling, not to mention the eloquent and generous way you have shared your story. Of all your days on the ice (getting to the ‘startline’, reaching the pole etc) this should be your proudest. The day that you and Tarka put your pride to one side, and made a very smart, very brave decision. You will complete this epic journey, and the glory that will fall on you will be even more deserved. I am so proud of you both,and grateful to Andy, Chessie and the team. Please come home safely. Please eat lots, and please try and enjoy your remaining miles…. H x
# Martyn White, January 3rd 2014
Hi Ben, I’m Hannah’s Dad. We only met once when you impressed me as a serious player and the sort of guy I would treck with to the Pole. You have just made such a good call, and you and Tarka will both live to fight another day. Give me a ring when you get back. I’d be proud to buy you a beer.
# Perran, January 3rd 2014
Your descriptions of the conditions under which you tried to keep going brought most of us to our knees. Your way with words given what you have been through is beyond words.
I fervently hope you will be able to complete the expedition and return to Scott’s Hut, with your heads held high.
God speed and my very best wishes
# Andrea, January 3rd 2014
There is a need there to readapt after the damages caused by the efforts of limit, and to make conceivable the plan for the several days ahead before to reentry in the initial expedition plan .
# Tony Muilenburg, January 3rd 2014
Thanks for not getting yourselves killed :) You guys truly are an inspiration. One thing you left out is that the earlier expeditions were not hauling laptops and other communication gear. I think your story will be all the better in that it truly demonstrates how harsh and unforgiving the environment is. The amount of weight you guys pull in that environment is unfathomable. Keep up the good work.
# Scott Expedition Team, January 4th 2014
Thank you everyone for so many wonderful messages of support. As you may have seen via the tracker Ben and Tarka were back on the move again today covering just over 9 miles in 4 hours and are now camped for the night.A blog with a further update from Ben will follow as usual tomorrow morning.
# George Chapman, January 4th 2014
Thanks for the update. With you previous post about having problems with the tracker and one phone I think it was out of service I get a little concerned about these guys on the ice. It’s amazing how many comments have been made here on this one blog. Two hundred or more. A lot of folks caring about these guys. Look forward to following these guys till the end in about 40 days.
# Mal Owen, January 4th 2014
I think I speak for all when I say “we look forward to that.”
# Kristoffer, January 4th 2014
You do speak for me, Mal.