Tracking
the Journey
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Distance to go:
0 Mi
Distance
Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.
Distances here are shown in statute miles.
The Cloudmaker, Kyffin and the Crampons (Day 85)
Day 85: S84° 19' 9.84", E169° 43' 40.08"
Duration: 7 Hr 45 Min
Daily distance: 18.8 Mi
Distance to go: 484.5 Mi
Temperature: -4 °C
Wind chill: -12 °C
Altitude: 3061 Ft
We're back among old friends today (well, familiar landmarks at least) and we're camped this evening under the giant flanks of the mountain Sir Ernest Shackleton named The Cloudmaker* with a clear view north down the Beardmore glacier towards the unmistakable - and I think quite beautiful - Mount Kyffin, a jagged, ridged peak that lies almost opposite our exit on to the Ross Ice Shelf. Conditions, as ever, have been tough today, and we started moving this morning in low cloud, wet snow and near-zero visibility, which made things quite stressful.
The weather improved as the day went on, which was handy as we had to navigate a tricky blue ice descent before we started to draw level with The Cloudmaker. Tarka's crampon repair held up admirably until the last session of the day, when the Dyneema tape he'd used to bind it together finally wore through, so we stopped ninety minutes early this evening to repeat the same repair but using steel wire this time. Worryingly his other crampon has cracked, though mine are still intact and looking good, which is remarkable given my tendency to wreck equipment.
Physically we're both feeling very battered; the repeated jarring and impact on our joints as we descend this 110-mile glacier, much of it on a steel-hard blue ice surface, means we both have sore feet, sore knees, sore hips and sore elbows. And as our joints have now covered 2,125km or 1,320 miles out here, they were probably pretty creaky before we started going downhill. Sodium diclofenac (Voltarol) has become our drug of choice during the day, and we've started raiding our supply of Tramadol at night, partly as Tarka's thumbs are so painful now it's warmer that I think he struggles to get to sleep.
We're both hungry most of the time we're awake, we've once again taken to licking empty energy bar wrappers and sucking the white fat out of the plastic our slices of salami are vacuum-packed in. Keeping a clear train of thought for more than a few moments during the day is becoming harder, and the vivid food fantasies we had before we were resupplied are kicking in once more with a vengeance. We often discuss our imaginary feasts at break times. One of Tarka's today was sushi ("Cheap sushi, on a conveyor belt") and mine was roast pork with crackling, apple sauce and really good roast potatoes.
Now the finish line is theoretically well under three weeks away, we're both also getting wildly excited about sitting down in a chair at a table, eating with a knife and fork, drinking out of a glass or a china mug, having a shower and, of course, enjoying the luxury of a sit-down loo. We haven't done any of these things for nearly three months.
*At least I think it was Shackleton that named it. I could well be utterly confused, especially as my mind seems unable to do much except hold a Homer Simpson-style focus on thick, crispy pork crackling...
Comments
# Deborah, January 18th 2014
Such an amazing achievement - been watching, sponsoring and waiting for this to happen since 2007. One thought I have as you near the end of this incredible adventure is if you have any specific approach to ‘reintegration’ with the world. To go from such total isolation even back to the relatively low key life of Punta Arenas is going to be an enormous culture shock to you both. Is it something you just plan to suck up and push on through or have you got a deliberate approach so that you don’t completely freak out?
# Ariane, January 18th 2014
Yes, I’ve wondered about “re-entry” as well. In the brief pauses between your roasted pig sushi feasts you will surely be inundated. Seems like taking a few weeks somewhere relatively inaccessible to reflect and write would serve you (ok, your epic book) well.
But first, please stay alive.
# Mia Bentley, January 18th 2014
Thinking of you both. Everystep you take is one closer to finishing. Your both an inspiration! xxx
# Marina Kleinwort, January 18th 2014
I agree wholeheartedly with Richard on this one. Hoping u can safely get down off the glacier and get some extra calories in - however u do that is not important. I am sure u r both aware of the side effects of tramadol as well. All my positive thoughts are for crampons that hold up and heads that remain clear. If only i could peel off my extra kilos I would happily give them to you! I am sure you will do whatever is necessary to stay well. Be strong guys. I promise to do Sunday roast of pork when back with visitors from Wimbledon!
Xx
# Helena, January 18th 2014
Hello Ben and Tarka, I love to read your blog, I devour each your word and imagine you being there and living what you describe. I kinda dont like the fact you are hungry the whole day - this is not good. I hope you know what you are doing and that you considered the probable impact on you both in the future. But still I do not think that some food supply from the airplane would not decrease the enormous value and uniqueness of this amazing journey. Just I am worried about your health.
Hugs and prayers from friends in Brno, Czech Republic
# dj, January 18th 2014
Still, as always, glad you’re ok and having “fun.” The physician in me is still concerned about what plans are to avoid a repeat of… well, you know. Months of barely enough rations and forced 7 day a week labor - where have I heard this before? “Hunger most of the time you’re awake,” licking wrappers, seeking fat, food fantasies and reveries, difficulty holding a train of though - the first of these are malnutrition, the last medically crosses over the line into starvation.
Guys, I don’t think I’m alone in concern about what’s going on. How about some specifics about your plans to stay safe. (If you’re not up to writing it, how about letting Andy or your science person write a guest post) There’s no calories in Tramadol - and remember what I’m sure your doc has told you, side effects change in this (normally easily tolerated) central analgesic when the person is in a malnourished or debilitated state. [Unless, of course, the symptoms you describe are mostly ‘literary license’ - In which case you could tell us that as well.]
If a set of crampons (or a Snickers bar) just accidentally fell out of one of the multitude of helicopters flying overhead down there and landed at your feet, would that count?
# Helena, January 18th 2014
dj, thank you for your words :-*
# Anna, January 18th 2014
Good morning to all, referring to dj’s comment, Ben mentioned they were resupplied. HOw is this actually happening in practice? Or did I misunderstand?
Keep safe!
# Richard Pierce, January 18th 2014
Agree with you entirely, DJ. After this blog post I’m really very concerned about Ben and Tarka, and what worries me almost more than the malnutrition angle is the comment about Tarka’s thumbs.
R
# Andrea, January 18th 2014
You’re not alone, Dj, in concern about what’s going on. Yours and Richard’s are the insightful voices of this blog. And you look and see between the words. Please keep on.
# dj, January 19th 2014
Thanks for the kind words all… ever since the last, well, you know… I’ve been following quite a bit more closely and doing some “figuring” of distances etc. each day. Those are added each day to the Antarctica Google Earth Resource File in each days waypoint marker (click on it). It is available free at: [ http://offroadinghome.blogspot.com/2014/01/scott-expedition-coming-home.html ] .
Having prepared maps and resource files for several other “adventures,” I’ve become familiar with many adventurer’s natural tendency to gloss over some of the more, lets say, “more adventuresome” parts of their activities. Others have usually answered questions if one gently and politely asks them - these guys, however, are tough nuts to crack, keeping things pretty close to the vest. I’m not sure why, it’s hard to believe that they’ve got anything to hide.
# Nansen, January 18th 2014
Sorry to hear of the continuing crampon trouble. It’s one piece of the kit that is very hard to repair. As you have spare skis, perhaps try using those instead with long skins reversed, so as to slow your descent. If the ski snaps its not a fatal problem and may actually assist.
# Mal Owen, January 18th 2014
Despite the hunger you still seem able to appreciate your beautiful surroundings ....good. Drugs on an empty stomach…. Not good. Tarka’s thumbs, worrying. I am concerned about the crampons….not to be pessimistic because it hasn’t been my style for the last 85 days, but what happens if they become unusable ? Stay focused…wise decision making and teamwork are of the utmost importance at this stage…..the pork crackling, warmth, loved ones and that finish line are not too far away now.
# jan, January 18th 2014
Hi again. Reading your latest blog certainly gives such a mixed bag of emotions. Having followed you for so long now, we have become so involved with your journey both physically and mentally, therefore we worry about you, but also feel proud of you very substantial achievements to date. Thinking about you last night I was actually thinking about what I would be really looking forward to on returning home, apart from the obvious hot or cold food. I though that turning of the light on getting into a nice soft bed with clean sheets would do it for me. So the things that we take for granted on a daily basis becomes one more thing for you to look forward to. Take very good care of yourselves and stay safe, remember there are a lot of loveones and people old friends and new routing for you on a daily basis. Jan
# Leigh Phillips , January 18th 2014
Yeah there are a few worrying parallels with the time just before the resupply, hopefully when they are off the Beardmore the energy output will dip some and their calorie input will be sufficient again. Prayers for a safe return
# green, January 18th 2014
Are you guys running out of food?
# Tara Carlisle, January 18th 2014
Do whatever, WHATEVER, is needed to stay safe. That is all us followers want from you. We worry about you like you are our brothers and are in awe of your bravery, endurance and achievements. Wish I could send you a crampon and a hamper but re-supply if you need it. Your heroic status will not be diminished in my eyes - just as it wasnt last time. Please be safe. You’re doing grand! X
# Janer Stanley, January 18th 2014
Good going again guys, just think Ben, how good your first pork crackling will taste. Good to see the Cloudmaker & stay safe :)
# Richard Pierce, January 18th 2014
Just a comment in its own right now I’ve had time to think over your blogpost properly.
You have less than 500 miles to go, and your altitude has dropped quickly. The wetness will not help you, because it will feel colder than dry cold. If you are hovering on the edge of hallucinations (and that’s what it seems like to me), and you’re not taking in enough calories, you need to consider another resupply, regardless of what you think people will think of the status of the expedition. In the eyes of the majority of people (and not just people reading this blog, but all people), the journey is about its completion, not about exactly how supplies are made (be it depots laid the winter before or supplies dropped from the skies).
Your safety is paramount. Your survval is paramount, to be unashamedly blunt (swear words removed from that phrase). Scott and Amundsen used what technology was available to them in their era, and would not have held back from using the technology or support you can use if they had had access to them.
Take care, and God Speed.
R
# Andy Lawrence, January 18th 2014
I wholeheartedly agree, if you don’t have slack on the food you need another resupply. The kit problems you have had today and yesterday have effectively cost you a day which is a day further from the depot than you expected.
# Intrepid, January 18th 2014
Echoing ..... intentionally. The most important aspect of this expedition is to complete it ... and with the least amount of harm as possible.
Begging from the sidelines…. please stay within the boundary of what is safe.
Feeling for you both and the circumstances you are dealing with.
Love.
# Kat, January 18th 2014
I’m with DJ and Richard on this too…I hope you will consider a re-supply if your next depot is not close by. The rest of the world doesn’t care two hoots at this point about whether you were supported or not. Be safe! Thanks for continuing to share your journey with us.
# Mal Owen, January 18th 2014
Your words seconded :-)
# mark, January 18th 2014
Very interesting reading about your day dreams and thoughts of food - of course that is exactly what the Scott party experienced.
It is also fascinating seeing your talk of the muscle wasteage and the bangs and knocks you are taking too.
One only has to look at what the diet was 102 years ago and the equipment to realise a fraction of what those early explorers really went through.
You are following special footsteps; all best wishes for the final push to Ross Island.
# aehenton@btinternet.com, January 18th 2014
Well said # Richard Pearce. It is your safety and survival that count. The ability for you to tell the world of your journeys into yourselves and across that cruel unremitting expanse is worth more than any status. As always wishing you onwards and home.
# CaninesCashews, January 18th 2014
Hi guys,
Even with the shorter session you still managed nearly 19 miles and dropped over 1200ft – incredible really and you’ve busted through the magic 500 miles left to go.
As with Richard and DJ I am concerned about the lack of ‘fuel’ and Tarka’s thumbs, lack of sleep is probably the last thing you guys need at this stage. Equipment wise, I am hopeful the steel wire will hold out and a similar repair can be fashioned for Tarka’s other crampon if it goes the same way. Not sure how long it is to your next depot, was it at the Gateway (just a guess), three good walking days away?
It seems old man Beardmore likes to keep you on your toes. I think that Raymond Priestley, the geologist from Shackleton’s Nimrod Expedition was right when he said,
“Half the fascination an Antarctic expedition possesses, is to be found in the sharpness of the contrasts experienced during its course, for it appears to be true that a hell one day is liable to make a heaven the next.”
My sincere hope is for more of the latter for you guys out there.
Please know we are all willing you on, but your safety and well-being comes first. God speed.
Gav
# Christian, January 18th 2014
Ben, Tarka,
Please never forget to take care of each other. You made an excellent decision with the call for the resupply. Stay focused to get back home well. Whatever is needed to achieve this target all followers will be behind that decision.Luck, happiness and strength is what you need and is what we are sending to you from Berlin.
# Susan from Michigan, January 18th 2014
I agree , a resupply is in order. Your well being is most important. You need all the calories you can get. You have traveled far under very rough conditions. We are all worried about you! Stay safe and consider a resupply.
# Richard Pierce, January 18th 2014
Re: a resupply. I don’t think they’ll be able to get one until they’re off the Beardmore, unless it’s an imprecise drop rather than a brief landing. Ben did say in one of his earlier posts that it would be almost impossible to get any help while they were on the glacier.
Not knowing what the state of their rations are at the minute, I can’t even say if they’ve got enough slack to go onto 1.5 rations until they get past the Gateway, but I daresay they have no slack at all.
R
# David, January 18th 2014
As your ‘blog support team’ we are following your every step and watching the miles left to walk drop away - be careful and take great care of yourselves as you head for home. I hope your expedition support team are listening.
God speed
# Mal Owen, January 18th 2014
Hope the expedition support team keep close family informed as the blog must be a source of real concern for them…. it’s bad enough for us and unfortunately it’s hard for us concerned bloggers not to fuel the fire.
# Richard McGehee, January 18th 2014
Ben and Tarka
I would expect a tent and pre-packaged camp food in Antarctica would be a difficult situation to restore fat reserves. My recollection of pre-packaged backpacking meals did not have much fat. The salami sounds good. How about old fashioned pemmican that is loaded with fat? It was used by the American Indians and early explorers.
Happy trails to you from Kentucky.
# Deacon Patrick, January 18th 2014
Reading between the lines of a post some point back, I got the impression daily caloric intake was 6,000 calories (double dinner brought them to 8,000). I thought the daily polar need was 8,000 calories? Have they been mostly in a 2,000 calorie/day deficit? Or are my numbers off ?
The fact they are facing severe malnutrition/starvation symptoms with only their “standard” food supply waiting at depots (unless they resupply) is deeply concerning. Permanent damage can be done to organs and brain in the state they describe, and that’s without Antarctic extremes at play.
Do what you need to Ben and Tarka. Don’t let the mirage of being “close” fool you into a risky decision to try and carry on without whatever aid you deem necessary. Prayers continue for you both.
With abandon,
Patrick
# wonderwoman, January 18th 2014
Dear Ben and Tarka, please try not to damage yourselves too badly. Your lives, health and brains are the things your loved ones - and we all - want to return from this trip. Nothing else matters.
We send you love from Finland and pray for your safe return.
# Frederike, January 18th 2014
Dear Ben and Tarka,
I heard the talks on Ted, watched your videos etc. and just wanted to say I think you are very good-looking. I reckon these words will make you feel much better after reading all the other comments (although I am not suggesting you ignore those).
Hang in there!
Frederike
# Chris Wood, January 18th 2014
On the way up, on day 41 you camped at the base of the cloudmaker.The day before, on day 40, you switched from the skis as you encountered steeper, slippery blue ice with the most challenging, rough part of the glacier. Keep your heads today, tread very carefully, you’re close to that same tricky section now. Just when you need the clearest mind and the most energy! This isn’t the time to do half rations, or space out! Stay safe lads, keep the focus, look after each other. Eat some more if you can, don’t rush this bit.
On the edge of my seat, sending every ounce of good fortune I can muster in your direction
# Sheila England , January 18th 2014
When do you reach your next food depot? I’m sure I should know this, but I haven’t read all of the journal entries. Stay safe, and try to think ‘warm’.
-Sheila
# Marina K, January 18th 2014
Andy/Ben? One question: Being a bit dippy but can’t figure out when, in relation to our day in the UK, you are actually on the move…What time do you start & finish your day UK time?
# Andy, January 18th 2014
Hi Marina,
Ben and Tarka are working on GMT and on a normal day will start skiing sometime between 7-8am and finish between 8-9pm.
Andy
# Marina K, January 18th 2014
Thanks Andy! All clear. Can see they are still on the move now!
# COLIN BUCKLEY, January 18th 2014
Ben, Tarka. if you read what Richard Pierce wrote, I fully agree. There’s gonna be a lot of people who wanna shake your hands guys. You gotta get back. Everything you need to arrive to those last few yards, do it,take it. Adapt to the daily needs, overcome your tiredness. Be strong in the last few km’s of this Mega marathon. The mind now needs to govern the body. Get that strength.
Get the power, put those reserves into action. I’m one the many who wish I could be there when you arrive back to base. WOW!!!! Stay safe guys, one day closer, one day less. Keep going.
Cheers Colin
# Veronika , January 18th 2014
Both, with all my heart I wish you the best through these most challenging of times. Take comfort in the knowledge that a huge amount of people are routing for you. I love reading your blogs, such an inspiration to so many. Hang in there, best wishes, Veronika (UK).
# Waldo, January 18th 2014
I’m sitting here whining about procrastating about grinding down the rust in my old BMW because it is 45-degrees F outside while reading your daily report. Fine… I’ll take off the metaphorical skirt and be a man.
Hard to believe that the countdown to completion is upon us and I, for one, will miss living vicariously through the both of you when you have succeeded.
But sushi boat does sound good right now… Old rusty can wait another day.
# Rosie Vidovix Unsworth, January 18th 2014
I have every confidence in Ben’s leadership and Ben and Tarka’s experience.
Everyone knew this was going to be a tough gig and we must not panic because Ben is sharing some of the reality of their challenge and journey with us.
We have to trust Ben, Tarka and also Andy and the support team that they are doing the right thing.
# Hilary, January 19th 2014
Well said Rosie!
# Wayne, January 19th 2014
+1
# amir azemi, January 18th 2014
Keep it up guys, you are doing quite well! I liked one line espeacially today: cheap sushi in coveyor belt! It reminded me of a place it was written"all you can eat 9,99 €“on top of entrance it was all about where you were sitting! Or the other guy would get the good stuff :D
Greetings from Kosovo
# Sebastian, January 19th 2014
To begin with: bravo! Amazing performance under always very challenging conditions. I have been catching up to your progress and want to share a hearty, brotherly congratulations. The end is near. A plate of bangers and mash will never taste so good, and the shower so sweet, and there are within your sights!
In response to your comment about ALE not supporting soloing up crevasse fields in Antarctica, it is only fair to recognize that this has been accomplished by other intrepid explorers before. Borge Ousland, Rune Gjeldnes, or even our very own Felicity Aston come to mind (or Geoff Wilson who is presently completing his solo crossing from the East coast). They also faced the terrifying journey across thin ice bridges, solo, occasionally even partially breaking through them. Like you, they experienced the vulnerability, doubt and pain that Antarctica extorts out of all who have ventured into its brutal and majestic realm. Humility is their common bond.
Additionally, in describing man-hauling versus kiting you likened one to rowing versus sailing as a way to qualify the effort. This may need further qualifying as it could be misleading. To begin with, both Nansen and Scott harnessed wind as best they could, and had kites been invented in their day, there is no question these would have dominated polar exploration in Antarctica and Greenland from the onset. Further, a kite skiing mission has generally a different objective: faster and further travel. The effort, however, is commensurate with the objectives and the physical toll is also exacting (think of 4,000-6,000 k of travel versus 2,500 in the same time period). Besides, ascending a glacier, whether on a kite mission or not, is still done man-hauling with the same amount of weight given wind direction and the dangers of crevasse. Finally, since you addressed that in your post, the longest distance kite-skied was actually 595 k in one 24 hour period.
This should definitely not be interpreted as diminishing to the herculean effort that you and Tarka are presently undertaking. Let’s face it: man-hauling sucks! But it should frame polar travel in its historical context and acknowledge the precedence of all those who like you have suffered on the white desert.
Keep your head down—a stiff upper lip—and the best of strength until the finish line.
Regards to to Tarka.
# Heidi, January 19th 2014
Dear Ben and Tarka, I pray your minds stay lucid and you make good, safe decisions. Your safe arrival back to civilization by whatever means is what we’re all waiting for. If I were in charge, there would be another photo of that glorious red airplane in an imminent blog post. Sending you warm hugs from Southern California.
# kev, January 20th 2014
:-) “Kyffin and the Crampons ” ,,,, what a superb name for a pop group ! ,,, hmmm? You guys forming a boy band when you get back ? :-)
take care fellas.
# Damian, January 20th 2014
Gents,
You are so close and now the pain and suffering you are both experiencing is really coming to test you. I am confident that you have more than enough steel in the tank to grit out the next three weeks.
Those fantasies need not be fantasies in that time and they will be all the sweeter once you have achieved what you set out to do.
Damian
# Linda Henry, January 29th 2014
As your Battersea mother Ben I feel I am suffering with your own mother. What a feat you two are accomplishing. I can’t wait to see you “on the grass” with Molly. I will build a lovely fire for you and have a comfy chair ready. See you home and safe soon. Lots of love to you both XXXXXXXXX