Tracking
the Journey

  • Distance to go: 0 Mi
    Distance

    Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.

    Distances here are shown in statute miles.

Whiteout, Granola and a Turning Point (Day 56)

Day 56: S87° 44' 56.87", E159° 21' 30.60"

Duration: 8 Hr 30 Min

Daily distance: 18.2 Mi

Distance to go: 1059.8 Mi

Temperature: -24 °C

Wind chill: -38 °C

Altitude: 10062 Ft

Sorry for the lack of an update yesterday. We overslept by 20 minutes, then the surface was terrible all day and we decided to test both of us pulling one sled vs. each pulling individual sleds (we're leaving our last depot tomorrow morning and were considering leaving one sled). The process entailed unpacking and repacking the sleds several times, which added a couple of hours to our day and we didn't finish until late in the evening.

We'll also be doing nine or ten hours per day starting tomorrow, so the alarm goes off at 5.30am from now on, which wasn't the nicest start to today. It was a bit nippy as well, and a complete whiteout all day (I've sent back the only photo I managed to get before my camera died in the cold), which made progress frustratingly slow over the sastrugi fields we're starting to find.

I've always disliked whiteouts intensely, and find them oppressive, claustrophobic and disorientating, but as I retreated into my mind to try to pass our eight-and-a-half hours of hauling, I realised that the less there is to see, the more your thoughts turn inwards. Antarctica finds you out pretty quickly, and it doesn't seem at all tolerant of bluster, swagger or pretence, and a whiteout is perhaps the ultimate blank canvas upon which your qualities, values, foibles and frailties are inevitably laid out for inspection.

Tarka was cooking this morning, and of the two foil breakfast bags (they have no labels, so it's pot luck) offered me the granola with pecans in rather than the honey and oat one we have most often. The breakfasts are all delicious -thanks Dorset Cereals!- but the berry, chocolate and nutty varieties are rare treats, and I jumped at the offer, only to feel guilty and selfish for hours that I hadn't given Tarka what I knew was his favourite.

What's more, I felt physically weak and drained all morning, I felt ashamed that I'd blogged about wanting an expensive suit and some handmade shoes, though in my defense when you haven't touched soap or deodorant in two months, and when you wipe your bottom every morning on chunks of snow at minus thirty degrees, your mind does occasionally miss a bit of luxury. I also felt bad to have heard that my girlfriend was upset she hadn't been mentioned in my list of things I missed (I'd mistakenly thought she wanted to be kept out of the public eye and I now wished I'd made it clear that I'd swap a dozen Saville Row suits and swanky restaurant meals for a home-cooked meal with her and the chance to hold hands as we walked my dog) and my thoughts spiralled negatively as I cursed myself along.

I had a real wobble in the early afternoon, lagging behind Tarka and feeling powerless to move at much more than a crawl as we headed south into the gloom. Things came to a head at our last break when, slumped on my sled, I said to Tarka that I was worried we'd gone too fast so far, and that I was exhausted from trying to hold his pace (Tarka's an internationally-ranked competitive ski mountaineer, he's an extremely skilled and experienced skier, and he's a good five or six inches taller than me, so has a giant stride that I can't hope to match).

Thankfully Tarka took my complaining and worrying and grumpiness in that same giant stride, and gave me a perfectly-pitched pep talk -mainly about the state Shackleton was in when he turned around not far from here more than a century ago, and that they made it back despite being infinitely less fit, well-equipped and well-fed than we are- that made me choke up.

As we sat on our sleds, ate our energy bars and downed our hot carbohydrate drinks, I pulled my hood down a little and turned away so he didn't see the tears welling in my eyes. Once again, he's proving the perfect team mate and I went from gazing into the abyss of self-pity to feeling stronger - in heart at least if not in legs - than I have this whole expedition. I suspect today may have been a more profound turning point than when we swing round the South Pole and start heading home in a few day's time, and I was reminded of something Jerry Colonna said to me once, about the fact that at every moment in our lives we always have the choice to be kind, both to others and to ourselves. So there's my Thought for the Day from nearly 88 degrees south: we can always be kind.

Comments

# Ryan, December 20th 2013

Ben, I have been incredibly inspired, not only by your determination and amazing will to undertake such a seemingly impossible task, but also by your ability to adapt to the challenges that you are facing from day to day that would put any person to the ultimate test of endurance. The two of you have provided me with a sense of renewed faith in the human spirit and it’s ability to take on almost any task, whether it be typical daily routines and duties, or something as incredibly challenging as what the two of you have taken on.

I have always been fascinated with the farthest, most remote places on the earth, and Antarctica being the most remote and isolated, has to be an amazing place to experience. Watching the two of you journey farther on foot in the most remote and challenging place on earth, than most would want to drive a car, truly displays the tenacity of our species by illustrating how the human mind and body can endure almost anything with the right amount of dedication and commitment.

Although I have a minimal idea of how you truly feel, both physically and mentally, as you journey closer and closer to your goal each day, your posts provide a valuable and priceless insight that gets me as close as I will probably ever be to understanding. After reading this post, I feel like I have a new perspective on what you are going through, and how you are coping with each changing minute.

Thank you for allowing myself, and anyone that is following, the opportunity to participate in such a personal and inspiring example of the human spirits ability to adapt and overcome such incredible challenges. With each day, you will surely inspire so many to dig deep inside themselves for their inner most strength, from the most simple sounding tasks, to the most challenging imaginable in our individual perception.

# George Chapman, December 20th 2013

It looks like the team has stopped for today at about 3:00PM EST (12-20-13). They got in about 22Miles today which is really good. Wishing them a good nights sleep and some time of reflection.

# Jon G, December 21st 2013

Most of us will have done enough training at some point to be able to appreciate your Herculean physical efforts. But very few will have any understanding of what you’re going through mentally every day, and that includes me. I suspect it’s even more remarkable than what your bodies are going through. And that you can write about it, so candidly and movingly, is extraordinary.
“Antarctica finds you out pretty quickly…”. Sure. But most of us would have wobbled in the first few hours, not Day 57 in a white-out at altitude.
Deeply chuffed that Hertfordshire scouts floated through your mind a couple of days ago. There’ll be a welcome in the hillsides next to the M1. Meanwhile…

# ale, December 21st 2013

Hey Ben,

what about leaving one sledge and making Tarka pull??? Just jocking! :-)

Are you planning to get any day off? Be careful since you have to walk back home! Do not run out of energy for the return that might be as difficoult as this.

Sorry for bothering you about your schedule.

And take care of Tarka that might soffer as much as you but maybe he’s not saying anything!!!

And GRAZIE for making me (us) part of this trip.

Alessandro

# Jerry Colonna, December 21st 2013

Ah my friend Ben. As everyone who’s reading your notes, following the trip, will attest, there’s a fearsome power in you writing from your heart. Thanks for letting us in. It’s an honor.

Take heart from the responses…I dare say that if we could, we would hitch ourselves to the harness and drag it for you. (You know how often I’ve complained that if necessary I was going to carry you. Well I mean it. But not Tarka—he’s too big.)

With love from New York.

# Darylcobabe, December 21st 2013

Kindness is the essence of greatness and the fundamental characteristic of the noblest men.—-Joseph B. Wirthlin

# Christian C, December 21st 2013

Ben,

Best blog of the trip so far. I’m not one for quoting the good book but I have always liked this one…

Romans 5:3 “we also rejoice in our sufferings, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope. And hope does not disappoint us.”

Keep at it! If it were easy it wouldn’t be worth doing ;-)

Good luck!

Cheers,

C

# Chris Allen, December 22nd 2013

As said, keep your chins up lads. It could be worse.

# Kate Smith, December 22nd 2013

Thank you for sharing your wonderful blog and photos Cheers Kate

# Gina, December 22nd 2013

Beautiful post today, fellas. Your journey is part of our journey, now, thank you.

# Pavol Timko, December 30th 2013

I was very moved by this blog. Great reading!

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