Tracking
the Journey

  • Distance to go: 0 Mi
    Distance

    Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.

    Distances here are shown in statute miles.

A Big Day Out (Day 64)

Posted December 27th 2013,
by Ben Saunders

Category: Expedition, The Return Journey

Day 64: S89° 34' 31.62", E158° 28' 37.08"

Duration: 9 Hr

Daily distance: 21.3 Mi

Distance to go: 869.2 Mi

Temperature: -12 °C

Wind chill: -20 °C

Altitude: 9491 Ft

Apologies for the delayed update, but I suspect you already know that we swang round the South Pole yesterday (the day before yesterday by the time you read this) and are now on the homeward leg of our journey. Our plan was always to pitch the tent and leave our sleds about 10km from the Pole and then to leg it with not much more than a bit of food and drink, our satellite phone, our tracking beacon, a camera and a flag. The round trip turned out to be a bit of an epic by the time we'd followed the regulation route into the South Pole station itself, skirting the runway, and we clocked 56.7km (nearly 36 miles) in what turned out to be a eighteen-hour day.

In short, I'm afraid to say -though it's probably quite apt- that I concur with Captain Scott himself when he said of the South Pole "Great God this is an awful place". For him, of course, there was nothing there at all. A patch of snow at the heart of a barren, deeply inhospitable continent. For us, it felt like walking into a cross between an airport, a junkyard and a military base. Or perhaps a scene that was omitted from a Star Wars film: skiing along with sacks swinging from our backs, futuristic mirrored goggles and hoods framed by coyote fur, we looked like two bounty hunters approaching some sort of outpost on a frozen planet.

As we skied alongside the runway, two skidoos -presumably electric ones as they sounded like hairdryers- skimmed past us, and one visored pilot raised a mittened hand in a half-wave, half-salute. It all felt very strange. The next thing we spotted was several acres of oil drums, cargo containers, pallets and cardboard boxes, with giant tracked vehicles moving between them, belching smoke and reversing with beepers blaring. We skied past several vast sets of fuel bladders that had been towed to the Pole from McMurdo, leaving tracks thirty feet wide. The smell of aviation fuel hung in the air, and huge exhaust plumes rose from what I assume are generators near the main station buildings itself. Anyone who thinks the South Pole station is all about bearded scientists releasing weather balloons and peering into telescopes is sadly mistaken; the place is a giant logistics hub geared, it seems, mainly around the vast quantities of fuel needed to keep this outpost heated and powered all year round, and to quench the thirst of the Hercules aircraft we saw sat on the snow runway.

We raced to the Pole (there are two actually, a few metres apart, the ceremonial one with all the flags, and the actual Pole that they move around as the ice slowly edges towards the coast), and took a few photos, shot some film and made some calls, before racing away again as fast as we could. By the time we made it back to the tent it was nearly 1am and we still had snow to melt and dinner to eat before sleeping for all of two-and-a-half hours and skiing another 35km today.

I felt strangely devoid of emotion at the Pole, but now we're skiing back to the coast my excitement (and indeed apprehension about the colossal distance that still remains) is mounting. We're both, as you might imagine, pretty shattered, and were struggling deeply today after almost no rest. Sat on my sledge at some point this afternoon, struggling to keep my eyes open, I said to Tarka as we ate and drank, "This is a stupid way to make a living". "True," he replied, as he emptied a packet of cashew nuts into his mouth, "But it's not a bad way to make a life".

Comments

# Hannah , December 28th 2013

Whoohooooo!
Well done… Hurry home to Babington… the menu is looking great & we look forward to welcoming you back!
Hannah
Of reception! Xx

# Tara Carlisle, December 28th 2013

Reading your updates are one of the highlights of my day and this entry was another sensational insight into your brave and legendary journey. I am not a courageous or sporty person but have been so drawn to this monumental and historic adventure, in part because of it’s boldness and promise but in the main because of the human element that your candid blogs allow us to see. You both seem like lovely guys, a magnificent team and i think about what you are doing several times each day. I am currently dealing with one of the most difficult times in my life but have found your challenges and what you are having to cope with, sometimes give me perspective and strength. Really hope you do a documentary upon your return. And yes - why has there been no news coverage? You are phenomenal - enjoy your achievement every day. Hope you’re proud x

# ale, December 28th 2013

Ben and Tarka,

style, it’all about style! You could well be already in a plane leaving the pole with a big achievement reported in the news BUT you’re still there skiing back for some more “fun ” and some 900 miles.

You are not the first to the pole, you are not the fastest or the youngest or…
You “just” go from the edges of the continent to the pole and way back in the same style as Capt Scott and the other explorers of that age. You only have new cloths and gear but the rest is the same.

And you even take time to tell all of us how it is.

MITICI!!!

# Kevin Wright, December 28th 2013

Hi Ben & Tarka . It sounds like a real anticlimax! Did anyone actually log your arrival? Glad you are both feeling encouraged by the return journey ! Here to a fast ride on the Beardmore! Take care. Kev

# Scott Expedition Team, January 4th 2014

Ben and Tarka had to phone in advance of their arrival to gain permission to enter the South Pole base area. This is necessary to make sure they do not interfere with any operations at the South Pole and was important as they needed to ski past the threshold of the runway.

# Intrepid, December 28th 2013

The South Pole has been a destination for many and is a semi-permanent address for some. The mystique of the Antarctic is not a destination, it’s in the vast expanse of wild land, in the harsh climate of cold and wind, whiteouts, as well as blue skies and sun, which day after day you live with while making your way through.

Dear Ben and Tarka,

Thanks for your frank account of what it was like skiing to your turn around point at the pole. It’s so unbelievable how you ‘swang’ around it… all those miles and hours in one day! Talk about marathons… Holy Mackerel! May you get some deep, restful,sleep!!!

PS. IMO Any type of human endeavor, including scientific, has no actual intrinsic advancement value unless it can do no harm and leave no trace behind. And when incommensurability of beliefs is understood as gratitude for diversified uniqueness, then humans will truly advance.

# Ian Webb, December 28th 2013

Well done guys, despite the lack of news here in the UK, I can assure you we are all pleased to know you made it. Now all you have to do is get back safe! take care.

# George Chapman, December 28th 2013

Congratulations guys or a good trip. Wishing you a safe return trip. I’m a little saddened to hear about some of the conditions at the pole. It’s sad that nearly every place touched by man is normally spoiled over time. It’s good that now your on your way back down. I expect to follow you home and look forward to the trip. Take care and stay warm.

# Sharyle, December 28th 2013

Congratulations on achieving this milestone!  The South Pole may be marred by humans but this in no way diminishes what you’ve done.  Great plan to swing by and then keep going. I can’t imagine how exhausted you must be.  I hope your plan allows for a day of rest soon. Best wishes for a safe return!

# Damian Harris , December 28th 2013

Well done again guys.
It seems that even at the extremes of the earth, humankind has made it’s mark. I can’t blame you for beating a hasty retreat.
It must have been quite a shock to your system skiing into that after seeing only each other and 1 plane since setting out.
Having religiously enjoyed reading your blogs for the last 65 days, I’m very much looking forward to following your journey back.
Remember that every day that passes is a day closer to real food, a comfy bed and warmth.
Wishing you both continued good luck.

# Kat, December 28th 2013

Congratulations, Ben and Tarka, and team, for this wonderful achievement…Wishing you speed and strength and fortitude for the next leg of the journey!  We’re with you all the way! I have a feeling there will be some excellent coffee, and tea with milk, at the end of the icy road!

# Kristoffer, December 28th 2013

From another person’s perspective of arriving at the Pole:
“After this we proceeded to the greatest and most solemn act of the whole journey — the planting of our flag. Pride and affection shone in the five pairs of eyes that gazed upon the flag, as it unfurled itself with a sharp crack, and waved over the Pole. I had determined that the act of planting it — the historic event — should be equally divided among us all. It was not for one man to do this; it was for all who had staked their lives in the struggle, and held together through thick and thin. This was the only way in which I could show my gratitude to my comrades in this desolate spot. I could see that they understood and accepted it in the spirit in which it was offered. Five weather-beaten, frost-bitten fists they were that grasped the pole, raised the waving flag in the air, and planted it as the first at the geographical South Pole. “Thus we plant thee, beloved flag, at the South Pole, and give to the plain on which it lies the name of King Haakon VII.‘s Plateau.” That moment will certainly be remembered by all of us who stood there.

One gets out of the way of protracted ceremonies in those regions — the shorter they are the better. Everyday life began again at once.”
-Roald Amundsen, The South Pole, Vol.II, page 122

# Richard Pierce, December 28th 2013

Of course, dear Kristoffer, that was before the Pole had been desecrated by the military and by territory grabbing under the guise of science. Amundsen’s achievement was indeed a great one, and I don’t think anyone in their right mind, or on this blog, would wish to denigrate a great explorer’s greatest achievement. And all great achievements come with a price. Judicious historians accord immortality to all those who strived (and continue to strive) to reach goals previously unreached.

R

# Kristoffer, December 28th 2013

Richard, I didn’t have any ulterior motive in quoting Amundsen, I’ve just been waiting to use that quote.  Amundsen’s gratitude to his team made me cry when I first read it.

# dj, December 28th 2013

Guys… it’s not “Either/Or”  ... alternative opinions don’t need to be explained away or minimized.  The two men obviously had two completely different experiences.  The same can be said EVEN TODAY by reading the internet for present day “survivors/residents” at the South Pole.  Not everyone who looks at the glass sees it half-full!

# Richard Pierce, December 28th 2013

Kristoffer,

Wasn’t insinuating you had an ulterior motive.

DJ,

Absolutely right.

R

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