Tracking
the Journey

  • Distance to go: 0 Mi
    Distance

    Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.

    Distances here are shown in statute miles.

Adios Beardmore (Day 87)

Posted January 19th 2014,
by Ben Saunders

Category: Expedition, The Return Journey

Day 87: S83° 42' 59.65", E170° 44' 11.76"

Duration: 9 Hr

Daily distance: 24.5 Mi

Distance to go: 442.1 Mi

Temperature: -4 °C

Wind chill: -12 °C

Altitude: 1168 Ft

Today's tale was rather different to yesterday's. The wind was still blowing this morning though its ferocity had waned, and it calmed even further to give us a gentle tailwind all day as we travelled under the clearest of blue skies. We started the day on crampons but the depth of the surface snow cover increased as we descended and we were able to switch to skis after an hour or so, staying on them for the remainder of the day.

The surface was patchy and crusty until mid-way through the afternoon, hiding a great deal of crevasses, though our skis were "against the grain" and the widest were only a few feet across, and almost all closed-up by snow bridges, so we sped along with our skis safely spanning the gaps. Since about 3pm, we've had much deeper snow and much easier terrain as Mount Hope came into clear view and we neared the vast mouth of this giant glacier.

We covered just shy of 25 miles (40km) today and we're parked just over 4 miles (7km) away from our depot, which we'll pick up tomorrow morning before climbing up and through the Gateway, the small col that Shackleton identified as a safe route from the Ross Ice Shelf on to the Beardmore.

After swearing yesterday that we hated this place and that we were never coming back, I felt surprisingly emotional as we approached the final stretch of the glacier this evening, especially as I looked back along our tracks towards the Cloudmaker. The Beardmore - both the ascent and the descent - was the part of this journey that held the most fear and apprehension for me, and also the only part where I felt my experience lagged substantially behind Tarka's (who lives in the Alps and has spent hundreds of days on glaciers, both there, in Patagonia and in the Himalayas) so it's been an extraordinary learning curve, and an experience that has at times pushed me a long way beyond my comfort zone.

I suspect, like a microcosm of this entire expedition, that it will be an experience that was pretty hellish for most of the time I was going through it, but one that I'll look back on fondly (from a comfortable armchair, by a fire) as one of the most special times of my entire life.

Comments

# Mal Owen, January 20th 2014

This is the day when you will pass the point where you lay in your tent and said, if I may quote you,
“Getting to the top, and seeing what lay on the other side, is a moment I’ll remember and treasure for the rest of my life”...“It is a magical, magical place”.....“I am a lucky, lucky boy”..... too right on all counts…. how well you have both done….through the Gateway you go !

# Austin Duryea, January 21st 2014

Heroes all the way. Awesome job on everything. Now comes the part where you come back and everyone celebrates. Especially you and your group. I’ve been following you from the beggining and you have been my hero all the way. When I was younger I wanted to cross the South Pole and I thought it was impossible. Know I know that it doesn’t matter who you are, you could set out to do anything. Good job guys and stay warm!

# Richard Pierce, January 20th 2014

Dear, dear boys,

What a wonderful effort after the hardest of days the day before. I am so pleased that you achieved such an immense distance, on the Ice and in your minds. A relief, too, that your depot is so close.

Take great care through the Gateway. It is the final serrated part of the quest, and it is not beyond old Beardmore to have a sting in his tail.

That you are creating such wonderful memories for yourselves is gratifying, what takes your journey another step towards greatness is that you are creating lifelong memories for us, too.

God Speed.

R

# Jored, January 20th 2014

Outstanding. You are doing great. Now comes the “easy” part.
You’ll make it and go straight into history.
Fortitudine Vincimus from Spain.

# dj, January 20th 2014

Yes… it’s easy to be philosophical when you’re not up to your… er… waist in alligators. But it’s the last thing you want to hear when you are!  We all could tell, by watching your mileages, that we’d get a much different blog post today than yesterday.  Congratulations!

Homeward!

# Jörg, January 20th 2014

Heroes. Absolute heroes.

# Uncle Pete, January 20th 2014

Just what we hoped we would see! Well done. Heed Richard’s (as usual) wise words - don’t get complacent but nevertheless bask in the glow of the amazing achievement thus far, brfilliant, as they say.As they also say ‘there’s many a slip twixt cup and lip’. Eat well on your recovered supplies and keep your guard up - you are still in an unforgiving environment.
Once through the pass you will have time to reflect on the extraordinary ups and downs of your quest, and know that you have both experienced something very unique. Thanks for sharing it with us and we look forward to much more detail once we know you are back on Terra Firma! Best wishes for the last leg.

# Hilary, January 20th 2014

Wow, that was an early start this morning! I checked first thing at 7.35am and you’d already done a whole degree North. As you haven’t moved for the last hour and a half, I presume you are at your depot now. Take care on the final stretch, back on the Ice Shelf tonight hopefully. You are both inspirational and I’m loving following this blog. I’ve finished Heart of the Antarctic now and I’ve just started The Worst Journey in the World. The Antarctic is my new passion due to your blog bringing it all to real life. So thank you for keeping us all up to date each day. It’s like we’re living it with you but from a much warmer place. 1C in Herefordshire this morning.

# mark w, January 20th 2014

Well done on getting to the bottom of the Beardmore, and one really has to feel that the worst is behind and the barrier slog is “all” that is left!
Can I ask people to remember Edgar Evans at this point in your journey. He was the first man of the polar party to die, and this was a Very heavy blow to the other four.
For those interested, Swansea is raising money for a statue to this great man - (he is the only one of the polar party without a statue) more details at this link!
http://isobelpwilliams.com/2013/12/04/edgar-evans-statute-appeal/?relatedposts_exclude=769

# Lydia , January 20th 2014

I have had my heart in my mouth and a knot in my stomach most of this weekend thinking of you two with everything crossed hoping your decent would be a safe one. Watching yesterday’s mileage rack up was such a sweet relief.
Ben and Tarka you are the most incredible individuals and as a team your are unbeatable, a force not to be reckoned with.
Keep safe, keep strong for tomorrow you may have double rations.
Lydia x

# Susan from Michigan, January 20th 2014

I am so glad to hear you both are doing much better. As I had said in an earlier post I refer to you as “my boys” and it was very difficult to sit in my warm house and read that “my boys” were going through much rougher conditions than they had been. I can’t imagine anyone having to endure what you guys have so courageously battled through everyday. You are right about one day looking back and this will be just a great memory. As always, stay safe and enjoy your day. I look forward to hearing about what your day has been like in the next blog.

# Jen, January 20th 2014

Amazing guys. Most incredible story to tell, and hold with you. I wish you well for the next step.

# Mal Owen, January 20th 2014

Kevin suggested Kyffin and the Crampons for pop/rock group name… maybe the Battling Beardmores or the Beardmore Battlers ?

# Lydia, January 20th 2014

Or Beardsmore and Backagain Boys (BBB’s).......

# Andrea, January 20th 2014

Ben Guin and the Hungries
Blue Ice and the Breezers
Sister SledgeS Brothers
:-)

# CaninesCashews, January 20th 2014

Hi guys,

As Dinah used to say ‘what a difference a day makes’!!

What an amazing effort to almost see the back of Beardmore in only five days. Please take care on the last part of the descent through the Gateway.

My hope for both of you is that you will be able to retain all these wonderful new experiences and memories, letting them ferment over time to be recollected in much comfort for years to come.

Also I wonder how many echoes of Scott’s team carried on those winds at your tail yesterday?

Onward.

Stay safe.
Gav

# Mal Owen, January 20th 2014

That last sentence brought echoes of Richard’s book to mind :-)

# CaninesCashews, January 20th 2014

Praise indeed!

# Richard Pierce, January 20th 2014

I’m blushing now.

And want more people to read it. :-)

I’m so chuffed at the boys’ efforts yesterday, and it doesn’t look like they’re holding back this morning either.

R

# Janet Stanley, January 20th 2014

Good to see this blog’s title! As Richard mentioned don’t get complacent…Antarctica’s environment is unforgiving as you know! Good going again, stay safe :)

# wonderwoman, January 20th 2014

Dear Ben and Tarka, thank you for the wonderful news today. Hoping for clear skyes and not too much wind we send you love from Finland and pray for you.

# Phil Satoor, January 20th 2014

I wonder what it is about blue skies that seems to lift the spirit.  Anyway, here’s a question: do you receive weather forecasts for your locale and if so, was yesterday’s storm predicted?

# Anthea Henton, January 20th 2014

Ben, your writing yesterday was brilliant, harrowing, chilling but brilliant. It felt like the spirit of the Beardsmore that was bruising, and testing you so thoroughly, had given those of us reading a sly flick of it’s tail, and a flash of it’s teeth.

I’m bouncing on my seat reading how well today went. brfilliant (#Richard I still love that word).  Perhaps, that malevolent spirit that you speak of has realised that it cannot have you, there are too many souls alongside you, watching your steps, willing you homewards to loved ones and China mugs.

Sleep well and grub up tomorrow.

# Uncle Pete, January 20th 2014

mid morning UK time - looks like you have done your pick up and moved on - reminds me of my old train sets that picked up the mail sacks in passing! We will be anxiously watching your progress over the col which, as can be seen from your outward posts, still has some tricks to play so continue watchful and aware - keep safe to the other side.

# JB, January 20th 2014

A suggestion for a new walking mantra:

Beardmore no more. <breath> beardmore no more. breath ...

Best of luck for the remaining miles.

Cheers,
JB

# Andy Lawrence, January 20th 2014

Brilliant to hear this and a monster day yesterday. If it was possible to go and wait at the finish line I’d be on my way there now

# Richard Pierce, January 20th 2014

Looks like they’ll be at the Gateway in another hour (it’s now 13:48 GMT). Fingers crossed for you, boys. R

# Intrepid, January 20th 2014

Tales of your expedition will indeed go on and on.  I can’t imagine ever forgetting being a part of this blog: the suspense of knowing you are okay, the anticipation of reading your daily posts, the pictures in my mind your words have created—- a little taste of what it was really like. My great-grandchildren (I hope) will all know about your expedition!!!

Dear Ben and Tarka,

I have to say my nerves are a little tweaked and my belly is up in my mouth after reading your description about skiing over crevasses and snow covered bridges.  I’m amazed by how simple and safe you can make it sound! Always great to hear you are safe as well as in very good spirits.

Hoping today goes without incident through the gateway and onto the shelf.

Best to you both.

# Pete Vassilakos, January 20th 2014

Wow, I missed the whole journey!  Considering how much of a nut I am for these things, I can’t believe I never heard of this expedition!
Every year, I go through my Antarctic/arctic expedition/explorer phase. I get so hooked on all these stories, Shackleton, Scott, Amundson, Peary, and Cook, Mawson and Franklin, and now…...Ben and Tarka. You guys are amazing, and as much as I know I would never be able to have enough endurance or mental strength to get through something like this, I find myself compelled by what you are doing, and wishing I was there. I have such strong compassion for this stuff. I guess it is reflected in my art work. At least I can so that! Haha. For all of you who share this strange fascination with polar exploration and history, check out my web site! You might like what I do! Ben, Tarka…. You rock! Get this done so you can enjoy a juicy burger and a thick cold beer! Best wishes you guys!!!

# Uncle Pete, January 20th 2014

re Richard - looks like they are now past the Gateway (14:30 uk). Collective thoughts all around for the safe descent now - take extreme care, we are waiting there for you Ben and Tarka!

# Richard Pierce, January 20th 2014

Yes, looks like they must now be on their way down the other side of the Gateway. I’m holding my breath when I should be working. R

# CaninesCashews, January 20th 2014

What are you doing to me Richard?!? :-))
I always have the GE tracker open on my 2nd screen with the scrolling blog screen next to it. However I have habitually refrained from commenting ‘real time’, tending to wait for the blog the next day to add my two-penneth.
But today I have been drawn in to the boys’ descent off the old man and through the Gateway, and find myself completely unable to concentrate on the artwork I really should really be completing.
I am hoping by commenting I might make the psychological leap back to Photoshop, I have my doubts!!
Come on boys!
Gav

 

# Intrepid, January 20th 2014

... feeling the butterflies in my belly… With you all ...hooked on Google Earth today too!!

# Richard Pierce, January 20th 2014

Sorry, Gav. I don’t even know how to get Google Earth to work real time, and just look at it once an hour, quit out of it and then dive back in, which I’ll do now. I don’t usually broadcast real time, but today’s just been nerve-shredding beyond belief.

R

# CaninesCashews, January 20th 2014

I’m with you there Richard!

# Richard Pierce, January 20th 2014

Looks like they’re through, but still at 141 mt elevation (which means that tomorrow they’ll have to go up again to about 240 mt before finally descending to 52 mt for the majority of their trip back to Cape Evans. The question then, of course, will be whether or not the Sea Ice is still navigable for them to sledge to Evans. R

# Marina Kleinwort, January 20th 2014

I have never pressed “refresh” so many times over a weekend in my life!  Boy will I be glad to know they are safely back on the ice shelf (which I suppose will provide its own challenges).  Nerves have been jangling for a few days now.  B & T are beyond inspirational.  I should say your insights/comments are equally pretty compelling Richard so its a thank you from me to you too! 

# CaninesCashews, January 20th 2014

On the way in they averaged around 160mt for the 180 miles prior to the Gateway hopefully it will be similar on the way back - not sure if I’ve done that right - completely addled today!?

# Richard Pierce, January 20th 2014

And I might have got those elevations wrong. When I zoom in on GE, they’re already down to 52 mt and it doesn’t go up again. I’m all atizzy, that’s what I do know. R

# Mal Owen, January 20th 2014

It’s been many years since I heard that expression all of a tiz or tizzy…my mum, bless her used to say it :-)
What a funny old day!

# CaninesCashews, January 20th 2014

What are we like - maybe I should stick to the arty stuff and you stick to the writing stuff and we should leave leave B & T to stick to the ice stuff!! :-)

# Richard Pierce, January 20th 2014

Quite! R

# Mal Owen, January 20th 2014

I bet you couldn’t resist a backwards last glance at the Old Man ? I’ve been sat here all day with bated breath, flicking between GE and the blog. George’s (btw what’s happened to him?) trick of adding /all to the blog link has been so useful.
  I can’t believe how captivated I have been…....I haven’t felt so excited , fearful, , hopeful, helpless,drained and loads more adjectives in a long time !

# Helena, January 20th 2014

Holding my breath to hear from you again when you are safely done with the glacier :-)

Next time you make journey like this (e.g.through Sahara desert as I hate winter) I go with you :-D

# Uncle Pete, January 20th 2014

52m, that’s what I make it too Richard, brfilliant progress,  I look forward to the morning Post with great interest.
I hope you have a chance to look back at the receding peaks and reflect with justifiable pride at your accomplishment. Keep those Punta Arenas steaks in mind as incentive as you trudge/race (!) across the Ice shelf. You surely deserve them.Keep safe and not complacent.

# Willie Hannah, January 20th 2014

Ben and Tarka, fantastic achievement today, the worst of the Beardsmore behind you, please don’t drop you guard until you are through the pass.  It was always going to be the crux of the trip, exhaustion, kit malfunctions, hunger, conditions underfoot and the weather, if there was ever a better chance for “Old Beardie” to get one over on you, this would be it.  Please don’t drop your guards until you are clear of the Pass.  Then it’s a mere 400 plus miles to push.    Truly HOOFING effort chaps.  Be safe, be strong and bag those miles. Regards, Willie

# Christian, January 20th 2014

...in case you don’t need your crampons any longer, please send them to me to Berlin, since I am fighting with “black ice” on my way home. Cheers, Christian

# Sue (and Noodle ), January 20th 2014

When you wake up in the morning,Pooh,‘said Piglet at last,’ what’s the first thing you say to yourself ?.
’ What’s for breakfast ? ’ said Pooh. What do you say , Piglet?’
  ‘I say I wonder whats going to happen exciting to-day?’ said Piglet.
Pooh nodded thoughtfully. ‘It’s the same thing ,’ he said.
x

# Dave, January 20th 2014

The easy part will be when you’re well north of 60 degrees south, regaling people listening raptly with stories about your expedition, and mulling over where to go next.

Hope for the best, and be prepared for the worst.

# Rebecca, January 20th 2014

As always, you both are so impressive. I’ve been compulsively refreshing Google Earth today. I don’t know where, technically, the Beardmore ends, but your red pin is out of the grey nubblies and on the (from this vantage) smooth white. We’re celebrating that achievement here in Vermont, and hoping your remaining path to Hut Point is a relative breeze. Stay safe, and in continued good cheer.

# Christian, January 20th 2014

Fantastic, I am really impressed how fast mood can change.. not only yours but the mood of all followers in your blog, too.
Ben, Tarka, after these two days I learned that you need this kind of challenges. And as you mentioned it correctly,if it would be so easy everybody would do it.
Stay safe, keep your motivation high and start (in case you are not doing this already :-) ) enjoying your ways on the finish line.regards from freezing Berlin

# Enrico, January 20th 2014

Hey guys! Greet the Beardmore on my part!!

# Tony, January 20th 2014

I liked the last paragraph of this blog which neatly sums up your journey and your thoughts.
You’ll definitely miss it when it’s gone but it’s good to have done it to have missed it!
You’re creating history and it’s good to watch it unfold. 
Well done lads on getting this far and thanks for updating the blog.

# Pete Casey, January 21st 2014

The clear sky’s reveal a stunning Blue/white ancient landscape, though it’s barron and unforgiving I always find it compelling to look at even in two dimensional photographs, I can only imagine what it must be like be there and see it first hand.

Well done on completing another Antarctic marathon day Ben & Tarka, hope you manage to fuel up on extra calories tonight after the depot pick up!
Godspeed

# michelle, January 24th 2014

It is great to hear you have made it past the Beardmore! I was part of a research team of 5 people that was working on the Beardmore Glacier the past two years—this year (from early December 2013 to early January 2014) we were just past the glacier grounding line on the ice shelf. We pondered your huge accomplishment as we worked in this vast environment. It is great to follow the blog and think of your journey. We were hoping to see you in the distance from our camp, but we did not overlap. Our tracks may not be visible anymore but you might have noticed relict snow piles of our camp and the routes we took for data collection. We all were following your progress and glad to hear you are on the home stretch. Incredible, and even more so to me after being in this environment!

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