Tracking
the Journey
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Distance to go:
0 Mi
Distance
Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.
Distances here are shown in statute miles.
The Final Steps (and Reaching Forward…)
Apologies for the delay in sending this update - it turned out to be a very long day indeed and I've only just had a couple of hours' sleep...
Antarctica seemed livid at the fact we were lying happily in our tent yesterday morning, eating well and contemplating our final few kilometres, and it went furiously about trying to bury us and our few belongings with spindrift, and occasionally as far as trying to shake our tent down and blow it away completely. The wind was gusting to nearly 50 knots, the hiss and spray of the snow hitting the windward end of our shelter sounded like heavy rain on a fast-moving car's windscreen, and erratic, gusts made the taut fabric boom and rumble with an alarming violence. It occurred to me that we were lying almost the precise distance away from Scott Base as Scott lay from One Ton Depot, and I thought of him as I lay there in the storm, trying to keep fear from creeping into my thoughts.
What to tell you of yesterday? We dismantled our green Hilleberg Keron tent -home for fifteen weeks now- in the early evening, as soon as the blizzard seemed to abate a little, and headed on a bearing towards a snow airstrip called William's Field (Willy's Field to the locals) and then on to the rough ice road that links the airfield with Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. We had been given two forecasts that suggested worst weather tomorrow, so we forced ourselves out of our sleeping bags and into the cold air once more. Low cloud and windblown snow blocked our view of almost all of the mountains and volcanoes that surround us, but we caught occasional snatched glimpses of Castle Rock and Observation Hill as we descended towards the sea. The wind came at us from our left, and our light sledges were blown out to our right-hand sides at crazy angles as we leant forwards and shoulder-barged our way into it, staying warm by skiing with short strides and a fast cadence, driving hard with our arms. It was weather that on any other day would have been miserable, but today it brought a grin inside the warm depths of my jacket hood rather than a gritted-teeth grimace; it can't stop us now, I told myself, and it obviously knows it.
After an hour we started to make out the huts and vehicles and flags of Willy's Field, and soon after that we were on the ice road that leads to Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. Skiing well past midnight, on a beautiful hard-packed surface, things started to get surreal. We skied past (and waved at) a fat seal, squirming along the side of the road in the opposite direction. A red US National Science Foundation truck approached us after a few more minutes, and I half-lifted a ski pole as a wave. The driver (Chris, from Charleston, South Carolina) stopped, clambered out and surprised us with an incredibly warm welcome. Thank you Chris; you cheered us up immensely on what was becoming a never-ending plod from flag to flag!
As we rounded the corner towards Scott Base, we could finally see the sea of McMurdo Sound, and hear the (glorious!) sound of waves lapping at the nearby shore. I thought I could make out a figure walking our way, to where the road turned from ice to rock; the transition from sea to land and our finish line for this giant trek. "Wait a minute", said Tarka, "There are a few more coming down the hill". It turned out to be almost the entire crew from Scott Base -and a few others from McMurdo- turning out to wave us over the line, on what was a chilly, windy afternoon. I was expecting a quiet finish, and was totally overwhelmed by the warmth of the reception we had from this wonderful gang.
Emotionally, Tarka and I are still numb and exhausted, and we are doing little more than eating and sleeping around the clock now. That he and I are here at all, at the end of this journey, with an unbroken 1,795-mile looping ski track behind us, is something I owe to an awful lot of wonderful people and companies that have carried on believing in me and in this dream, often for many years, and often when it seemed time and again that all hope of even starting it had been lost. There are too many to list and thank in one blog post, but I want to extend as much gratitude as I can wring out of clumsily-chosen words to Land Rover and Intel for breathing life into this expedition, and for making everything you have read about for the past four months possible. I also want to thank KCOM, Drum Cussac, CF Partners, Mountain Equipment, Bremont, GSK, Hilleberg and Field Notes.
My UK-based team have borne me humbly and tirelessly on their shoulders for so long, and I'm sending my sincerest love and thanks to Andy, Chessie, Tem, Gillie and Ryan. Further afield, I'm indebted to Jerry Colonna, Tony Haile, Al Humphreys, Martin Hartley, Anthony Goddard, Steve Jones (and the entire ALE team), Kate Bosomworth, James Lindeman, Alistair Watkins, Stuart Dyble and Philip Stinson.
Tarka and I are both so thankful to our loved ones and to our friends for being there for us always, and for putting up with us not being there for them for so long.
Lastly, I want to acknowledge my brilliant companion for the past three-and-a-half months of suffering and striving, the inimitable Monsieur L'Herpiniere. He has been reliable to the very end of the world, and to the very limits of endurance; both an anchor and a lighthouse in every storm this expedition has weathered. And even if no one had ever heard about this journey; if we had skied in secret, the chance to spend so long in this man's company is something I'm truly grateful for, and I can only hope that, long after we return home, I can continue to learn from and emulate his indomitable spirit, his stoicism in the face of deep discomfort and struggle, his generous and modest nature, and his remarkable self-reliance. He is, to borrow John Ridgway's highest accolade, a good man.
Right now it's time for more food and sleep, but I'll write again soon. Thank you all so much for following, for thinking of us, and for your messages and comments. With my brain addled and dulled by so much hard physical work and by so little in the way of rest and recovery, it's often been a struggle to do this journey justice in words and I fear I've fallen short on many occasions, but I hope you've enjoyed the story. Perhaps the best line I can think of to end on today is a piece of advice Tarka gave me several weeks ago on improving my skiing technique, but it's something that holds true for pretty much everything in life: "With each step, try to reach a bit further forward than you think you can".
Comments
# Philip de Roo, February 8th 2014
Ben & Tarka,
CONGRATULATIONS! It is fantastic what you both did. Really prout of you guy’s!
Thanks for keeping charing your blogs. Enjoi all the food and the good moments now.
Very best regards and a deep curtsey from the Netherlands
Philip de Roo
# Thea, February 8th 2014
Silent gratitude isn’t much use to anyone.
I am so grateful for everybody’s support. Your comments and encouragement not only helped keep Ben and my son focused but definitely helped me more than you can imagine. I resisted posting motherly guidance every morning for fear of being repetitive.
A huge thank you to all of you, all the cautionary guidance and encouragement was given without me having to interfere, I am especially indebted to Richard Pierce, who pre-empted my 4 am worries each and every day, powerfully with wit, wisdom and genuine concern.
Thank you Ben for all the wonderful posts and being a friend to Tarka
Thank you all so much and “God Speed” to every one of you
Thea
# CaninesCashews, February 8th 2014
#Thea what a relief it must have been for you over these last couple of days and how incredibly proud you must be.
I imagine it was nice to know you had this community of well-wishers supporting the boys. That you had something you could dip in to for a daily pick me up during this emotional rollercoaster or an adventure.
As for Tarka and Ben – I hope they have forged a life-long friendship on this ‘camping trip’ of theirs. In my experience friendship isn’t about who you’ve known the longest, it is about who came along and never left your side. I think they qualify for that.
One more thing – please remember, us sons are what our mother made us.
All the best
Gav
# Mal Owen, February 8th 2014
@ Thea
From one mother to another…..
It has been a privilege to follow and share the moments until their safe return. I am in no doubt about how I would have been feeling had it been my son. How relieved you must be. The proud mother can now recover from her ‘Worst Journey’ ... dare I say it , until the next time. Enjoy your family time.
Kind regards
Mal
# Jon G, February 8th 2014
Tried posting from the train yesterday, but not sure it made it through the ether.
Gav was right in his comments about standing on the shoulders of giants. You’re now in their ranks, and when the time comes I’ve got no doubt you’ll help others stand on yours.
I woke up last night with a Sondheim song about giants and adventures in my head, and for a while I couldn’t work out why. It’s from Into The Woods, and it’s about Jack, his beanstalk, and the tugs of adventures and home. Safe travels (again).
When you’re way up high
And you look below
At the world you left
And the things you know,
Little more than a glance
Is enough to show
You just how small you are.
When you’re way up high
And you’re own your own
In a world like none
That you’ve ever known,
Where the sky is lead
And the earth is stone,
And you know things now
that you never knew before,
Not till the sky.
And you scramble down
And you look below,
And the world you know
Begins to grow:
The roof, the house, and your Mother at the door.
The roof, the house and the world you never thought to explore.
And you think of all of the things you’ve seen,
And you wish that you could live in between,
And you’re back again,
Only different than before,
After the sky.
There are Giants in the sky
There are big tall terrible awesome scary wonderful
Giants in the sky
# Perran, February 8th 2014
It’s time to smell the roses Ben…. Think about settling down a bit and rearing children who
can sit spellbound hearing the tales of your amazing expedition…
Good Effort you two !
# Carlos, February 8th 2014
I knew about your expedition just before arriving Punta Arenas, and at this point I got hooked, looking for updates twice a day.
It has been absolutely impressive to be able to follow your daily updates. Kudos to Intel for acheiving such a technological landmark. Seems like you were towing a tribune full of followers in your sledges.
In the very first days of your expedition,when your sledges were 200kg. heavy, and your daily mileage was about 10, I felt that the finish line was impossible to reach.
Day after day, depot after depot, when your daily mileage improved substantially, I felt absolutely amazed for your endurance, strength, and menthal preparation. This feeling has lasted me for the rest of the expedition, so you make me beat a record. 90 days (and counting) absolutely astonished!
I want to give my modest opinion about the resuply you had: We all could feel through your daily updates that something wasn’t going right after the great effort of reaching the Pole.
I’m glad that You two and your team took the right decision at this very hard point.
Congratulations Ben & Tarka, you’ve made history!!
I’ll follow your further posts, my admiration to you doesn’t finish today :-)
My Very Best Wishes,
Carlos (Mallorca)
# Pat Henton, February 8th 2014
Tarka and Ben. Congratulations on completing your amazing journey. Thankyou for sharing your experiences, I am truly in awe of what you have accomplished, a tremendous achievement, bravo.
# Toby Arnold, February 8th 2014
Ben & Tarka, this is my first comment, but I felt you both equally deserve all the adoration you have been receiving for this has clearly been a unique human endeavour. As a team, you have striven to support each other. Tarka has been doing this without blogging here (with one exception), but Ben you have eloquently described the huge role that Tarka has played in keeping you going.
Ben, your writing has moved me so many times and implored me to login each day for another chapter in this exceptional story of adversity, friendship and achievement.
Your powerful and evocative writing has encouraged thousands of people to follow your everyday moves and for hundreds to leave their own wonderful posts of prose, poetry and lyrics. I must make mention of Richard here, who has uplifted me with his words of encouragement, knowledge, advice and poetry.I trust he did the same for you.
I hope that you find time to blog a little more about your journey back to normality. Otherwise I look forward to meeting you again when you give future talks to inspire others to achieve their dreams.
Congratulations to both of you, your support teams and all those who willed you on through this incredible journey.
Toby A
# Susan from Michigan, February 8th 2014
Break out the champagne!!! You did it!!! Congratulations on a job well done!! Thank you for allowing us to follow along on your journey!! You been an inspiration to all and now we know dreams really can come true!!!
# Eric, February 8th 2014
Hi Ben and Tarka,
Congratulation! Thank you to share your fantastic expedition through your blog, day after day. Enjoy your Victory!
Hope you’ll back soon with a book and a film.
Best regards,
Eric
# Liz Naik, February 8th 2014
Congratulations!
From Liz & Kiran, Switzerland.
# Gabi, February 8th 2014
Congratulations Ben and Tarka !
Your physical and mental endurance are way off the scale, I can only admire what you achieved.
Thanks also for the excellent blogs.
Gabi (Germany)
# Thomas Latcham, February 8th 2014
What you achieved you achieved for us all. We were with you in prayers.It made us stronger if we were weak. And if we encouraged you, then you took something from that. Congratulations! You might see me there oneday… Antarctica might just have to contend with me, oneday too…