Tracking
the Journey
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Distance to go:
0 Mi
Distance
Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.
Distances here are shown in statute miles.
The Final Steps (and Reaching Forward…)
Apologies for the delay in sending this update - it turned out to be a very long day indeed and I've only just had a couple of hours' sleep...
Antarctica seemed livid at the fact we were lying happily in our tent yesterday morning, eating well and contemplating our final few kilometres, and it went furiously about trying to bury us and our few belongings with spindrift, and occasionally as far as trying to shake our tent down and blow it away completely. The wind was gusting to nearly 50 knots, the hiss and spray of the snow hitting the windward end of our shelter sounded like heavy rain on a fast-moving car's windscreen, and erratic, gusts made the taut fabric boom and rumble with an alarming violence. It occurred to me that we were lying almost the precise distance away from Scott Base as Scott lay from One Ton Depot, and I thought of him as I lay there in the storm, trying to keep fear from creeping into my thoughts.
What to tell you of yesterday? We dismantled our green Hilleberg Keron tent -home for fifteen weeks now- in the early evening, as soon as the blizzard seemed to abate a little, and headed on a bearing towards a snow airstrip called William's Field (Willy's Field to the locals) and then on to the rough ice road that links the airfield with Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. We had been given two forecasts that suggested worst weather tomorrow, so we forced ourselves out of our sleeping bags and into the cold air once more. Low cloud and windblown snow blocked our view of almost all of the mountains and volcanoes that surround us, but we caught occasional snatched glimpses of Castle Rock and Observation Hill as we descended towards the sea. The wind came at us from our left, and our light sledges were blown out to our right-hand sides at crazy angles as we leant forwards and shoulder-barged our way into it, staying warm by skiing with short strides and a fast cadence, driving hard with our arms. It was weather that on any other day would have been miserable, but today it brought a grin inside the warm depths of my jacket hood rather than a gritted-teeth grimace; it can't stop us now, I told myself, and it obviously knows it.
After an hour we started to make out the huts and vehicles and flags of Willy's Field, and soon after that we were on the ice road that leads to Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. Skiing well past midnight, on a beautiful hard-packed surface, things started to get surreal. We skied past (and waved at) a fat seal, squirming along the side of the road in the opposite direction. A red US National Science Foundation truck approached us after a few more minutes, and I half-lifted a ski pole as a wave. The driver (Chris, from Charleston, South Carolina) stopped, clambered out and surprised us with an incredibly warm welcome. Thank you Chris; you cheered us up immensely on what was becoming a never-ending plod from flag to flag!
As we rounded the corner towards Scott Base, we could finally see the sea of McMurdo Sound, and hear the (glorious!) sound of waves lapping at the nearby shore. I thought I could make out a figure walking our way, to where the road turned from ice to rock; the transition from sea to land and our finish line for this giant trek. "Wait a minute", said Tarka, "There are a few more coming down the hill". It turned out to be almost the entire crew from Scott Base -and a few others from McMurdo- turning out to wave us over the line, on what was a chilly, windy afternoon. I was expecting a quiet finish, and was totally overwhelmed by the warmth of the reception we had from this wonderful gang.
Emotionally, Tarka and I are still numb and exhausted, and we are doing little more than eating and sleeping around the clock now. That he and I are here at all, at the end of this journey, with an unbroken 1,795-mile looping ski track behind us, is something I owe to an awful lot of wonderful people and companies that have carried on believing in me and in this dream, often for many years, and often when it seemed time and again that all hope of even starting it had been lost. There are too many to list and thank in one blog post, but I want to extend as much gratitude as I can wring out of clumsily-chosen words to Land Rover and Intel for breathing life into this expedition, and for making everything you have read about for the past four months possible. I also want to thank KCOM, Drum Cussac, CF Partners, Mountain Equipment, Bremont, GSK, Hilleberg and Field Notes.
My UK-based team have borne me humbly and tirelessly on their shoulders for so long, and I'm sending my sincerest love and thanks to Andy, Chessie, Tem, Gillie and Ryan. Further afield, I'm indebted to Jerry Colonna, Tony Haile, Al Humphreys, Martin Hartley, Anthony Goddard, Steve Jones (and the entire ALE team), Kate Bosomworth, James Lindeman, Alistair Watkins, Stuart Dyble and Philip Stinson.
Tarka and I are both so thankful to our loved ones and to our friends for being there for us always, and for putting up with us not being there for them for so long.
Lastly, I want to acknowledge my brilliant companion for the past three-and-a-half months of suffering and striving, the inimitable Monsieur L'Herpiniere. He has been reliable to the very end of the world, and to the very limits of endurance; both an anchor and a lighthouse in every storm this expedition has weathered. And even if no one had ever heard about this journey; if we had skied in secret, the chance to spend so long in this man's company is something I'm truly grateful for, and I can only hope that, long after we return home, I can continue to learn from and emulate his indomitable spirit, his stoicism in the face of deep discomfort and struggle, his generous and modest nature, and his remarkable self-reliance. He is, to borrow John Ridgway's highest accolade, a good man.
Right now it's time for more food and sleep, but I'll write again soon. Thank you all so much for following, for thinking of us, and for your messages and comments. With my brain addled and dulled by so much hard physical work and by so little in the way of rest and recovery, it's often been a struggle to do this journey justice in words and I fear I've fallen short on many occasions, but I hope you've enjoyed the story. Perhaps the best line I can think of to end on today is a piece of advice Tarka gave me several weeks ago on improving my skiing technique, but it's something that holds true for pretty much everything in life: "With each step, try to reach a bit further forward than you think you can".
Comments
# Rachel Barenblat, February 7th 2014
Ben and Tarka—Congratulations!!! What an amazing accomplishment. The vastness of what you two have accomplished brings tears to my eyes. It has been an honor and a privilege to be able to read along with, and catch glimpses of, your extraordinary journey. I think back to when I was reading Ben’s updates from the solo ski across the North Pole attempt—foiled, if memory serves, by a whole lot of open water—and it is amazing to me that you have come this far, that you have done this incredible thing, and that I have been fortunate enough to read about it in realtime. I wish the two of you every blessing!
# Louise Higginbottom, February 7th 2014
Congratulations Ben (and Tarka); its been a while since I sponsored mile 2, and at least this time you have not had to mend your gloves with dental floss.
Another great journey completed.
# Lauren, February 7th 2014
This is truly spectacular! Wishing for you both a protracted welcome replete with hugs,cheersing, back slaps, speedy recoveries, loads of love from your people, lots of delicious meals, massages, dog pats and nice, indoor weather! Will you be blogging for a little while longer? I myself am curious as to how your next few days will be—well, weeks actually! Or shall we follow your twitter?
Best!
Lauren.
# Allison & Mark, February 7th 2014
Truly AWESOME. I knew very little about Scott’s journey until I met you. To be able to write such graphic words and to impart your inner most feelings during this phenominal journey, has been a great education to me and to many others. Ben and Tarka, you are an inspiration to us all.
Thank you for sharing your journey with us.
I shall miss reading about your exploits each morning…....where to next?
Kindest regards
Allison & Mark
# Margaret & Simon, February 7th 2014
Both dumbstruck in awe, respect and thanks to you, Ben, Tarka and the team for reaching this great moment in history.
# Darcy, February 7th 2014
Brings tears to my eyes. I’m moved by the goal and perseverance it took to make it happen. You two are total inspiration.
# Kerry Keierleber, February 7th 2014
Absolutely fantastic! Congratulations from Illinois, USA. I stumbled upon your story through TED and have been following your journey- what an amazing inspiration. Thank you, thank you so much for sharing!
# sue and noodle, February 7th 2014
Robert Burns= The Bard=1759-1796
Reader-attend,
Whether thy soul soars fancy’s flights beyond the Pole,
Or darkling grubs this earthy hole, in low pursuit;
Know, prudent, cautious, self control,
Is wisdom’s root.
Job well done.
Safe home.
# Rivka, February 7th 2014
Amazing and well done!
Thank you for sharing the trip.
# Ellie Scourse, February 7th 2014
Ben and Tarka,
I’ve followed your journey since the beginning and haven’t commented yet. Mainly because I never seem to be able to find the right words about how amazing your trip is and how incredibly inspirational I’ve found it personally. Thank you so much for sharing it with us all. There must have been days when you really didn’t feel like writing or blogging, but you did anyway - and it really did make for wonderful an riveting reading. Get some sleep and enjoy some non-freeze dried food! Thanks again. Ellie
# Janet Stanley , February 7th 2014
Richard , likewise. Cannot say how much these words have moved me & to write so eloquently after your last hard slog,well done & congrats :)
# Rivka, February 7th 2014
These words are huge and most inspirational.
We got to witness an incredible adventure and also got to take away applied bits of wisdom…….
“With each step, try to reach a bit further forward than you think you can”.