Tracking
the Journey

  • Distance to go: 0 Mi
    Distance

    Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.

    Distances here are shown in statute miles.

The Final Steps (and Reaching Forward…)

Apologies for the delay in sending this update - it turned out to be a very long day indeed and I've only just had a couple of hours' sleep...

Antarctica seemed livid at the fact we were lying happily in our tent yesterday morning, eating well and contemplating our final few kilometres, and it went furiously about trying to bury us and our few belongings with spindrift, and occasionally as far as trying to shake our tent down and blow it away completely. The wind was gusting to nearly 50 knots, the hiss and spray of the snow hitting the windward end of our shelter sounded like heavy rain on a fast-moving car's windscreen, and erratic, gusts made the taut fabric boom and rumble with an alarming violence. It occurred to me that we were lying almost the precise distance away from Scott Base as Scott lay from One Ton Depot, and I thought of him as I lay there in the storm, trying to keep fear from creeping into my thoughts.

What to tell you of yesterday? We dismantled our green Hilleberg Keron tent -home for fifteen weeks now- in the early evening, as soon as the blizzard seemed to abate a little, and headed on a bearing towards a snow airstrip called William's Field (Willy's Field to the locals) and then on to the rough ice road that links the airfield with Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. We had been given two forecasts that suggested worst weather tomorrow, so we forced ourselves out of our sleeping bags and into the cold air once more. Low cloud and windblown snow blocked our view of almost all of the mountains and volcanoes that surround us, but we caught occasional snatched glimpses of Castle Rock and Observation Hill as we descended towards the sea. The wind came at us from our left, and our light sledges were blown out to our right-hand sides at crazy angles as we leant forwards and shoulder-barged our way into it, staying warm by skiing with short strides and a fast cadence, driving hard with our arms. It was weather that on any other day would have been miserable, but today it brought a grin inside the warm depths of my jacket hood rather than a gritted-teeth grimace; it can't stop us now, I told myself, and it obviously knows it.

After an hour we started to make out the huts and vehicles and flags of Willy's Field, and soon after that we were on the ice road that leads to Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. Skiing well past midnight, on a beautiful hard-packed surface, things started to get surreal. We skied past (and waved at) a fat seal, squirming along the side of the road in the opposite direction. A red US National Science Foundation truck approached us after a few more minutes, and I half-lifted a ski pole as a wave. The driver (Chris, from Charleston, South Carolina) stopped, clambered out and surprised us with an incredibly warm welcome. Thank you Chris; you cheered us up immensely on what was becoming a never-ending plod from flag to flag!

As we rounded the corner towards Scott Base, we could finally see the sea of McMurdo Sound, and hear the (glorious!) sound of waves lapping at the nearby shore. I thought I could make out a figure walking our way, to where the road turned from ice to rock; the transition from sea to land and our finish line for this giant trek. "Wait a minute", said Tarka, "There are a few more coming down the hill". It turned out to be almost the entire crew from Scott Base -and a few others from McMurdo- turning out to wave us over the line, on what was a chilly, windy afternoon. I was expecting a quiet finish, and was totally overwhelmed by the warmth of the reception we had from this wonderful gang.

Emotionally, Tarka and I are still numb and exhausted, and we are doing little more than eating and sleeping around the clock now. That he and I are here at all, at the end of this journey, with an unbroken 1,795-mile looping ski track behind us, is something I owe to an awful lot of wonderful people and companies that have carried on believing in me and in this dream, often for many years, and often when it seemed time and again that all hope of even starting it had been lost. There are too many to list and thank in one blog post, but I want to extend as much gratitude as I can wring out of clumsily-chosen words to Land Rover and Intel for breathing life into this expedition, and for making everything you have read about for the past four months possible. I also want to thank KCOM, Drum Cussac, CF Partners, Mountain Equipment, Bremont, GSK, Hilleberg and Field Notes.

My UK-based team have borne me humbly and tirelessly on their shoulders for so long, and I'm sending my sincerest love and thanks to Andy, Chessie, Tem, Gillie and Ryan. Further afield, I'm indebted to Jerry Colonna, Tony Haile, Al Humphreys, Martin Hartley, Anthony Goddard, Steve Jones (and the entire ALE team), Kate Bosomworth, James Lindeman, Alistair Watkins, Stuart Dyble and Philip Stinson.

Tarka and I are both so thankful to our loved ones and to our friends for being there for us always, and for putting up with us not being there for them for so long.

Lastly, I want to acknowledge my brilliant companion for the past three-and-a-half months of suffering and striving, the inimitable Monsieur L'Herpiniere. He has been reliable to the very end of the world, and to the very limits of endurance; both an anchor and a lighthouse in every storm this expedition has weathered. And even if no one had ever heard about this journey; if we had skied in secret, the chance to spend so long in this man's company is something I'm truly grateful for, and I can only hope that, long after we return home, I can continue to learn from and emulate his indomitable spirit, his stoicism in the face of deep discomfort and struggle, his generous and modest nature, and his remarkable self-reliance. He is, to borrow John Ridgway's highest accolade, a good man.

Right now it's time for more food and sleep, but I'll write again soon. Thank you all so much for following, for thinking of us, and for your messages and comments. With my brain addled and dulled by so much hard physical work and by so little in the way of rest and recovery, it's often been a struggle to do this journey justice in words and I fear I've fallen short on many occasions, but I hope you've enjoyed the story. Perhaps the best line I can think of to end on today is a piece of advice Tarka gave me several weeks ago on improving my skiing technique, but it's something that holds true for pretty much everything in life: "With each step, try to reach a bit further forward than you think you can".

Comments

# angie athanassiades, February 7th 2014

It is we who should be thanking both of you. You have offered inspiration and shown a level of determination, spirit and sportsmanship that is so rare in our day. You have, if but for a while, lifted us all with you above the cynicism and self-centredness we spend our every day in. Thank you and thank you so much for your wonderful post. It made me cry and I feel so, so happy and proud of you! xx

# George Martin, February 7th 2014

Absolutely amazing achievement, huge respect for completing such an epic expedition!
Big thanks for all the blog posts, it’s been seriously inspirational following the daily updates!

# Duncan Slater, February 7th 2014

Well done boys!

# André Lambert, February 7th 2014

Ben,

Massive congrats!

All the best,

André

# Paul, February 7th 2014

So glad you are back safely. When’s the movie due for release?

# Rebecca, February 7th 2014

I swore to myself that I wouldn’t make any more comments on this site after the thrilling ride last night, but… your post today has moved me to tears: the description of the final hours, your generous well-deserved regard for Tarka, and your heartfelt thanks to your family, friends, and followers. Thank you so much for sharing your experience as much as you were able here. My heartiest congratulations to you and Tarka and the rest of your team! I look forward to your next adventure, though, honestly, I can’t think anything will ever surpass this one.

# Class 4, February 7th 2014

Dear Ben and Tarka,
Class 4 at St Martin’s Primary School, Folkestone have been following your journey and we have been inspired by your bravery and the way in which you completed it with little equipment. We would like to say a big congratulation on finishing. You have inspired us in our learning and we have written poems and made our own TV news reports about you both.Hope you enjoy a well deserved rest! We would love it if you could visit our school to see our work!
From class 4

# Kevin Wright, February 7th 2014

Hi Glass 4,
I’m pretty sure these guys will make every effort to visit you and tell you their story. One of their Patrons Robert Swan has done this for a living ever since becoming the first man to reach both poles. Check Robert out and his charity 2041 on line and how he inspires young people all over the world to help save the worlds last great wilderness. Anne Kershaw who supports Robert behind the scenes will tell you all about it and how you can get involved. I’m lucky enough to set off to Antarctica my self next year and I have already been asked to sheer with some local schools as it truly is a magical place! Keep Going as Robert would say! Kev.

# Brian Jarvis, February 7th 2014

Congratulations on your achievement! Your endurance was an inspiration for me very day of your expedition. I’m glad you are safely back and hope that you will be reunited with your loved ones very soon.

# Intrepid, February 7th 2014

While tears are falling… How utterly amazing the two of you are! Gentlemen. Both of you!  A duo that has ... reached for so much. You have reached into the pockets of the past, are inter-generational inspirational, have brought forth incentive for new endeavors, and by golly ... have four feet’dly taken Antarctica by storm!!

Congratulations Ben and Tarka!!!

May you always remember, a journey is measured in friends. May you always stride with each other, forward!

Onward Ho!!

# Paul Hunnisett, February 7th 2014

Congratulations on a magnificent achievement. History made and a lifetime friendship forged. Not too bad a return!

# michael pianin, February 7th 2014

You are my heros!  Congrats, beautiful story

# Uncle Pete, February 7th 2014

I’ll put it this way:
That’ll do Boys, that’ll do
(and thank you Andy Lawrence for perfect translation!)
Well done the two of you, steadfast until the end despite that continent’s desperate grasp.
A bit late here due to IT access in Malawi, but congratulations from my family and also on behalf of the other volunteers and staff at Lillongwe Wildlife Centre who are truly impressed with your trip, though I suspect they would not put it on the Gap Year choices!
Hope you get a good flight back tomorrow and are able to quench your steak cravings!
I also hope there will be some sort of post forum to forge the links between the incredibly loyal band of commenteers and let them understand some of the intricacies and problems so future explorers can learn from them. For now this has surely to be the Trek of the Century, well done and thanks for safe deliverance. Pete

# Pig, February 7th 2014

I’m feeling slighted.

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