Tracking
the Journey
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Distance to go:
0 Mi
Distance
Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.
Distances here are shown in statute miles.
The Final Steps (and Reaching Forward…)
Apologies for the delay in sending this update - it turned out to be a very long day indeed and I've only just had a couple of hours' sleep...
Antarctica seemed livid at the fact we were lying happily in our tent yesterday morning, eating well and contemplating our final few kilometres, and it went furiously about trying to bury us and our few belongings with spindrift, and occasionally as far as trying to shake our tent down and blow it away completely. The wind was gusting to nearly 50 knots, the hiss and spray of the snow hitting the windward end of our shelter sounded like heavy rain on a fast-moving car's windscreen, and erratic, gusts made the taut fabric boom and rumble with an alarming violence. It occurred to me that we were lying almost the precise distance away from Scott Base as Scott lay from One Ton Depot, and I thought of him as I lay there in the storm, trying to keep fear from creeping into my thoughts.
What to tell you of yesterday? We dismantled our green Hilleberg Keron tent -home for fifteen weeks now- in the early evening, as soon as the blizzard seemed to abate a little, and headed on a bearing towards a snow airstrip called William's Field (Willy's Field to the locals) and then on to the rough ice road that links the airfield with Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. We had been given two forecasts that suggested worst weather tomorrow, so we forced ourselves out of our sleeping bags and into the cold air once more. Low cloud and windblown snow blocked our view of almost all of the mountains and volcanoes that surround us, but we caught occasional snatched glimpses of Castle Rock and Observation Hill as we descended towards the sea. The wind came at us from our left, and our light sledges were blown out to our right-hand sides at crazy angles as we leant forwards and shoulder-barged our way into it, staying warm by skiing with short strides and a fast cadence, driving hard with our arms. It was weather that on any other day would have been miserable, but today it brought a grin inside the warm depths of my jacket hood rather than a gritted-teeth grimace; it can't stop us now, I told myself, and it obviously knows it.
After an hour we started to make out the huts and vehicles and flags of Willy's Field, and soon after that we were on the ice road that leads to Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. Skiing well past midnight, on a beautiful hard-packed surface, things started to get surreal. We skied past (and waved at) a fat seal, squirming along the side of the road in the opposite direction. A red US National Science Foundation truck approached us after a few more minutes, and I half-lifted a ski pole as a wave. The driver (Chris, from Charleston, South Carolina) stopped, clambered out and surprised us with an incredibly warm welcome. Thank you Chris; you cheered us up immensely on what was becoming a never-ending plod from flag to flag!
As we rounded the corner towards Scott Base, we could finally see the sea of McMurdo Sound, and hear the (glorious!) sound of waves lapping at the nearby shore. I thought I could make out a figure walking our way, to where the road turned from ice to rock; the transition from sea to land and our finish line for this giant trek. "Wait a minute", said Tarka, "There are a few more coming down the hill". It turned out to be almost the entire crew from Scott Base -and a few others from McMurdo- turning out to wave us over the line, on what was a chilly, windy afternoon. I was expecting a quiet finish, and was totally overwhelmed by the warmth of the reception we had from this wonderful gang.
Emotionally, Tarka and I are still numb and exhausted, and we are doing little more than eating and sleeping around the clock now. That he and I are here at all, at the end of this journey, with an unbroken 1,795-mile looping ski track behind us, is something I owe to an awful lot of wonderful people and companies that have carried on believing in me and in this dream, often for many years, and often when it seemed time and again that all hope of even starting it had been lost. There are too many to list and thank in one blog post, but I want to extend as much gratitude as I can wring out of clumsily-chosen words to Land Rover and Intel for breathing life into this expedition, and for making everything you have read about for the past four months possible. I also want to thank KCOM, Drum Cussac, CF Partners, Mountain Equipment, Bremont, GSK, Hilleberg and Field Notes.
My UK-based team have borne me humbly and tirelessly on their shoulders for so long, and I'm sending my sincerest love and thanks to Andy, Chessie, Tem, Gillie and Ryan. Further afield, I'm indebted to Jerry Colonna, Tony Haile, Al Humphreys, Martin Hartley, Anthony Goddard, Steve Jones (and the entire ALE team), Kate Bosomworth, James Lindeman, Alistair Watkins, Stuart Dyble and Philip Stinson.
Tarka and I are both so thankful to our loved ones and to our friends for being there for us always, and for putting up with us not being there for them for so long.
Lastly, I want to acknowledge my brilliant companion for the past three-and-a-half months of suffering and striving, the inimitable Monsieur L'Herpiniere. He has been reliable to the very end of the world, and to the very limits of endurance; both an anchor and a lighthouse in every storm this expedition has weathered. And even if no one had ever heard about this journey; if we had skied in secret, the chance to spend so long in this man's company is something I'm truly grateful for, and I can only hope that, long after we return home, I can continue to learn from and emulate his indomitable spirit, his stoicism in the face of deep discomfort and struggle, his generous and modest nature, and his remarkable self-reliance. He is, to borrow John Ridgway's highest accolade, a good man.
Right now it's time for more food and sleep, but I'll write again soon. Thank you all so much for following, for thinking of us, and for your messages and comments. With my brain addled and dulled by so much hard physical work and by so little in the way of rest and recovery, it's often been a struggle to do this journey justice in words and I fear I've fallen short on many occasions, but I hope you've enjoyed the story. Perhaps the best line I can think of to end on today is a piece of advice Tarka gave me several weeks ago on improving my skiing technique, but it's something that holds true for pretty much everything in life: "With each step, try to reach a bit further forward than you think you can".
Comments
# Bob Miller, February 7th 2014
Well done - a brilliant journey wonderfully documented. It was great to be able to read your blogs and understand a little of what you were going through. The down-beat blogs probably told the story even better than the ones where things were going well.
I’m glad you’re both safe and able to relax now, and I hope the burger is as good as you’ve been imaging it to be!
# Dave, February 7th 2014
My beard is doomed.
# Phil, February 7th 2014
Curiously, it seems hardly any time ago since I was reading the blog posts in the first few days - with daily mileages of 6 or 7 - and thinking, “This is going to be hard.” Well, I guess you found out….... After many months of reading all the accounts by Shackleton, Scott, Cherry -Garrard, and Mawson from the Heroic Age, it has been really wonderful to follow the journey every day and get an even more personal view of what it feels like. Thanks so much.
# Craig, February 7th 2014
Ben, having followed your blog, with bated breath from start to finish, I am, along with many other blog followers, in awe of both your achievements and as you neared the final hurdle, I was camped out in my heated living room (sorry lads) with TV on all the news channels, the computer was locked on to ‘Blog’ up-dates, and the radio tuned in but, when I finally caught the national news, unfortunately, it was with great dismay and disbelief!! Their report on this heroic duo achievement appeared to be a “solo” trek, with no mention whatsoever of Tarka. I have to seriously question the PR side of this so called ‘team’ and Tarka I feel deserved his name to be mentioned alongside Ben, all be it Ben’s expedition. If this small faux pas affected me personally, I can only imagine how upset his immediate loved ones must feel at this apparent omission to Tarka’s name, to date, in the national media. Without whom, we are fully aware, this journey would not have been completed!
A last thought is to reflect upon some of the blogs which mentioned Tarka who selflessly pulled at times a little more than his equal share of provisions during this epic odyssey. I would have loved to see the surprise on Tarka’s face when this ‘Foreign Camera Man’ appeared slipping stealthily out of his Pulk at the end of the trip to capture the moment for posterity…………………… no wonder Tarkas sledge was so heavy carrying this French stowaway!
Shame on the PR team for this ‘apparent’ or am I alone in my thoughts. DC quoted above seems to share a similar wavelength or does the picture taken together sum up the trip. Maybe this will be rectified in the next few days……………..maybe?
# Andrea, February 7th 2014
A complaint at whitch to subscribe. Maybe this superficiality is corrigible.
# Octarine, February 8th 2014
Although aware that others were originally on board and Tarka was a relatively late replacement, I too am upset at the apparent omission of recognition of his phenomenal endeavours, without which this unsurpassable achievement would not have been possible. No disrespect to Ben intended here, who undoubtedly fought long and hard to obtain the sponsorship to get the expedition off the ground. Ben’s sponsors please take note that Ben could not have succeeded in his endeavours without Tarka, his equally heroic companion. Thank you to Ben for your accolades given to Tarka.
May I also add my immense CONGRATULATIONS to both Ben and Tarka on your accomplishment of such an incredible, astounding exploit. You have both lived, recreated and brought Scott’s Terra Nova expedition vividly to life for me. Ever since viewing Scott Of The Antarctic at primary school in the 1960s, which made a profound impression on me, I have been entranced by Antarctica and Scott’s journey .
A HUGE well done and thank you for such a fascinating insight provided through your indescribable blog and videos that I have religiously pursued for the past year or so. Your courage,determination and perseverance through the most unimaginable challenging conditions cannot be comprehended or commended enough.
EXCELLENT!!
# dj, February 8th 2014
1- There needs to be no mere “opinion” referenced here. The data speaks for itself. Count the number of names, read what was delivered in the press, count the “column inches” devoted to the “Tarka” subject—they all speak for themselves—it is what it is.
2- It is true that NEARLY ALL the limelight has been focused on Ben from his “crew.” Most PR messages from them relate: “Ben phoned in,” “Ben has moved,” etc.. They did use a lot of “they’s”; but, could Ben have used Tarka’s name more? Yes. Could the PRs have been more “balanced?” Yes. However, in fairness:
3- Much, and if the truth be told - most, of the anonymity surely was of Tarka’s own making. Even at this late date we really have no clue exactly what the mechanisms were for posting the blogs - whether they were relayed by email for Andy/Andrew/whoever to post or whether Ben actually hit “post” from his computer to put it live (doubtful). However, I remember that Tarka was literally “begged” then coerced to write some of this thoughts for weeks before he finally relented; and then, it never happened again. Was he prohibited or discouraged from doing so? I doubt it. To me it seemed he wanted his privacy and anonymity and made sure it happened.
Was either of the methods wrong? No. Ben and Tarka are clearly motivated by different values, priorities and agendas. And, I can see why when Ben does speak gratefully about Tarka, it’s not with the tinkling and perfunctory: “we really thank” used for Land Rover and Intel etc. but rather with the booming, yet solemnly-understated : “He’s a good man.”
Even midst the cacophony that is erudition, recognition, acclaim, limelight - Ben is, as are we, internally aware enough to recognize a “man of integrity”(the highest valuation that can be given a man’s character here in the west). Recognize, as he has admitted, in some quite important aspects his better.
and,
4- In this thing, is for all of us, the test of our own nature: to break free of self-interest, glitz, hype, self-gratification, arrogance and pride enough to actually recognize the presence, and worth of, the quiet, unassuming, self-directed, outwardly-focused traits and habits making up - integrity.
From my observation, albeit only from a great distance, respect is much, much more a reward for Tarka than recognition and accolades.
# Scott Expedition Team, February 9th 2014
It’s amazing to hear the emotion generated by Ben and Tarka’s journey. But please be reassured there is no issue, and no need to create one here. Tarka’s wish is to retain his anonymity as far as possible. Leaving Ben with responsibility of using his powerful words to share their story with the world. I’m sure you’ll agree we all feel very lucky to have been a part of it. Please respect the way that they - together - have chosen to tell it.
# Scott Expedition Team, February 9th 2014
And Craig - yes - the picture of the two of them together does sum it up. This an outstanding team effort. Ben, Tarka and any member of our team (in fact, anyone following their journey) would be the first to say it! I hope this puts your mind at rest - please do feel free to email.
# Luke Brown, February 7th 2014
Congrats guys and thanks for the all the updates. You have both been truly inspiring, even for those of us in more comfortable environs. We leave the house emboldened.
# Gavin Keeble, February 7th 2014
An incredible feat Ben and Tarka - and what a line to end with - possibly the most inspirational line I’ve ever read. Thanks to both of you.
# Emma, February 7th 2014
Woop woop! WOOP WOOP!!
I hope your well-wishers greeted you with big juicy cheeseburgers at the finish line!
# Kevin Wright, February 7th 2014
Hi Guys, Congratulations on your world breaking achievement and for keeping the memory of Scott and his team alive. Tonight I will open a very special bottle of Shackleton’s Whisky and raise a glass or two to you both. We’ve been looking forward to this moment and now our own expedition trip to Antarctica next year. Nothing as special as yours but really looking forward to camping on the ice! If I was you I’d relax and enjoy the worlds last great wilderness and maybe plan your next trip! Well no point rushing home as it’s still bloody raining here. Snow is so much better! Thanks for the blog and the fantastic way you’ve kept us all entertained and updated. In away I think we’ve all felt a little part of your extraordinary journey. Take care Ben and Tarka, Cheers and Keep Going! Kev
# Ferdia and Naoise, February 7th 2014
Many congrats to you both from the West of Ireland. I have been reading your blog to my two youngest boys; Ferdia 9 and Naoise 7, as part of their bedtime story since Christmas. They have been mesmerised by your endeavours. Thanks for allowing us to share in your epic journey.
# Andrew, February 7th 2014
Congratulations to you both!!!!! I’ve followed your journey and I’m inspired by it. Not that I would do such a thing, but the fact that you stuck with it, you dealt with the supreme challenges and you worked through it all together is an amazing, wonderful story. Sleep, eat, bath, rest, relax and enjoy yourselves for a while. And thank you!
# Ty McClelland, February 7th 2014
You, Gentlemen, are Heroes.
Tears and Cheers
Eat and Rest
# Eric, February 7th 2014
Well done!