Tracking
the Journey
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Distance to go:
0 Mi
Distance
Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.
Distances here are shown in statute miles.
The Final Steps (and Reaching Forward…)
Apologies for the delay in sending this update - it turned out to be a very long day indeed and I've only just had a couple of hours' sleep...
Antarctica seemed livid at the fact we were lying happily in our tent yesterday morning, eating well and contemplating our final few kilometres, and it went furiously about trying to bury us and our few belongings with spindrift, and occasionally as far as trying to shake our tent down and blow it away completely. The wind was gusting to nearly 50 knots, the hiss and spray of the snow hitting the windward end of our shelter sounded like heavy rain on a fast-moving car's windscreen, and erratic, gusts made the taut fabric boom and rumble with an alarming violence. It occurred to me that we were lying almost the precise distance away from Scott Base as Scott lay from One Ton Depot, and I thought of him as I lay there in the storm, trying to keep fear from creeping into my thoughts.
What to tell you of yesterday? We dismantled our green Hilleberg Keron tent -home for fifteen weeks now- in the early evening, as soon as the blizzard seemed to abate a little, and headed on a bearing towards a snow airstrip called William's Field (Willy's Field to the locals) and then on to the rough ice road that links the airfield with Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. We had been given two forecasts that suggested worst weather tomorrow, so we forced ourselves out of our sleeping bags and into the cold air once more. Low cloud and windblown snow blocked our view of almost all of the mountains and volcanoes that surround us, but we caught occasional snatched glimpses of Castle Rock and Observation Hill as we descended towards the sea. The wind came at us from our left, and our light sledges were blown out to our right-hand sides at crazy angles as we leant forwards and shoulder-barged our way into it, staying warm by skiing with short strides and a fast cadence, driving hard with our arms. It was weather that on any other day would have been miserable, but today it brought a grin inside the warm depths of my jacket hood rather than a gritted-teeth grimace; it can't stop us now, I told myself, and it obviously knows it.
After an hour we started to make out the huts and vehicles and flags of Willy's Field, and soon after that we were on the ice road that leads to Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. Skiing well past midnight, on a beautiful hard-packed surface, things started to get surreal. We skied past (and waved at) a fat seal, squirming along the side of the road in the opposite direction. A red US National Science Foundation truck approached us after a few more minutes, and I half-lifted a ski pole as a wave. The driver (Chris, from Charleston, South Carolina) stopped, clambered out and surprised us with an incredibly warm welcome. Thank you Chris; you cheered us up immensely on what was becoming a never-ending plod from flag to flag!
As we rounded the corner towards Scott Base, we could finally see the sea of McMurdo Sound, and hear the (glorious!) sound of waves lapping at the nearby shore. I thought I could make out a figure walking our way, to where the road turned from ice to rock; the transition from sea to land and our finish line for this giant trek. "Wait a minute", said Tarka, "There are a few more coming down the hill". It turned out to be almost the entire crew from Scott Base -and a few others from McMurdo- turning out to wave us over the line, on what was a chilly, windy afternoon. I was expecting a quiet finish, and was totally overwhelmed by the warmth of the reception we had from this wonderful gang.
Emotionally, Tarka and I are still numb and exhausted, and we are doing little more than eating and sleeping around the clock now. That he and I are here at all, at the end of this journey, with an unbroken 1,795-mile looping ski track behind us, is something I owe to an awful lot of wonderful people and companies that have carried on believing in me and in this dream, often for many years, and often when it seemed time and again that all hope of even starting it had been lost. There are too many to list and thank in one blog post, but I want to extend as much gratitude as I can wring out of clumsily-chosen words to Land Rover and Intel for breathing life into this expedition, and for making everything you have read about for the past four months possible. I also want to thank KCOM, Drum Cussac, CF Partners, Mountain Equipment, Bremont, GSK, Hilleberg and Field Notes.
My UK-based team have borne me humbly and tirelessly on their shoulders for so long, and I'm sending my sincerest love and thanks to Andy, Chessie, Tem, Gillie and Ryan. Further afield, I'm indebted to Jerry Colonna, Tony Haile, Al Humphreys, Martin Hartley, Anthony Goddard, Steve Jones (and the entire ALE team), Kate Bosomworth, James Lindeman, Alistair Watkins, Stuart Dyble and Philip Stinson.
Tarka and I are both so thankful to our loved ones and to our friends for being there for us always, and for putting up with us not being there for them for so long.
Lastly, I want to acknowledge my brilliant companion for the past three-and-a-half months of suffering and striving, the inimitable Monsieur L'Herpiniere. He has been reliable to the very end of the world, and to the very limits of endurance; both an anchor and a lighthouse in every storm this expedition has weathered. And even if no one had ever heard about this journey; if we had skied in secret, the chance to spend so long in this man's company is something I'm truly grateful for, and I can only hope that, long after we return home, I can continue to learn from and emulate his indomitable spirit, his stoicism in the face of deep discomfort and struggle, his generous and modest nature, and his remarkable self-reliance. He is, to borrow John Ridgway's highest accolade, a good man.
Right now it's time for more food and sleep, but I'll write again soon. Thank you all so much for following, for thinking of us, and for your messages and comments. With my brain addled and dulled by so much hard physical work and by so little in the way of rest and recovery, it's often been a struggle to do this journey justice in words and I fear I've fallen short on many occasions, but I hope you've enjoyed the story. Perhaps the best line I can think of to end on today is a piece of advice Tarka gave me several weeks ago on improving my skiing technique, but it's something that holds true for pretty much everything in life: "With each step, try to reach a bit further forward than you think you can".
Comments
# Mark Jones, February 7th 2014
Many congratulations. I’ve been following your daily progress and have very much enjoyed taking your journey with you from the comfort of my armchair. I’ve been a Scott fan since I was 6 (I’m now 41) and in my teens planned on doing exactly what you’ve now done to mark the 100th anniversary. Of course I didn’t do it but so glad someone else has! Absolutely brilliant stuff. Please write a book about it all, it is a story for posterity. Very well done.
# Phil Satoor, February 7th 2014
I’m sure many of us watched in fascination last night as that little red dot on our Google Earth map edged closer and closer to Ross Island. Sometimes it paused and we wondered why and then the explanation came that it would be you putting up the tent or taking a short rest. But now we read your blog and the flesh is put on the bones of your track and all is made clear. I think we all felt relief when the dot finally stopped on dry land - you had done it, and a few moments later we heard that you were safe and sound.
You say that your writing has fallen short but I’ve devoured every word of your blogs, which I’ve enjoyed immensely and enjoy rereading which is a good sign. Your writing is every bit as good as Cherry-Garrard’s in his “Worst Journey”, a book I’ve read many times.
Finally you reach the kernel of your expedition, your companion Tarka L’Herpiniere, your friend. It’s very easy with all these social websites to click on an icon and a get new “friend”. But I’ve found true friends are very few and far between but when you do find one, they’re like gold. You are wise to realise you’ve struck a rich seam here.
I hope to read any books that you or Tarka write and perhaps follow your future adventures. Very few of us can do what you do, but we can have our own small journeys into the unknown, and then come home and read about the big ones. Good luck for the future.
# John Brain, February 7th 2014
Magnificent achievement.
I have read many many of the previous accounts, Scott, Shackleton, Evans, Mawsom, Fuchs, Mears, Worsley, Avery etc. - all of them great achievements and thrilling reads. But what has been unique about this account has been to be able to read it as it is actually happening. And a bonus has been your ability to write so eloquently, especially given your frequent exhausted state.
The journey was stupendous. The writing was, and is, a triumph.
# Richard McGehee, February 7th 2014
Simply magnificent!
Just caught the broadcast on BBC news.
Happy trails to you from Kentucky.
# Jill, February 7th 2014
Congratulations from the deck of RRS Discovery in Dundee. What a tremendous achievement!
# Iain Denley, February 7th 2014
A truely epic achievement, been gripped reading the blog each day. Ben and Tarka, you should be immensely proud of what you have proved is possible and to bring it to a much wider audience.
This is a truely epic expedition.
Congratulations!
# Saskatchewan, February 7th 2014
Well done guys - Respect and great effort.
I just hope that all that effort raises monies for a suitable charity and towards educating our younger generation and not just for your own egos…
# AlisonP, February 8th 2014
Ben and Tarka, I do not have sufficient words for how happy I am for you two, and how awed and inspired I am. You have succeeded and made it into the history books!! And yet again today the blog had me in tears. I wish I could have been there too with all those cheering people from the base to see you two completing your epic and amazing journey. Thank you for giving me such a thrilling, and sometimes nerve-wracking, armchair adventure story every morning for the last several months. While this was the last blog of the skiing part, I hope that you will continue to write in the blog about the return home. And I too, as so many others have done, encourage you to write a book about the adventure!
# Sheila England, February 8th 2014
Congratulations on an incredible achievement!!!!!!!!!
I will so miss these posts, but I am so happy you are safely done (esp.without last minute broken bones!) Enjoy those comfy chairs and a decent cups of coffee .
Cheers guys!
-Sheila
# Joel t minnesota, February 8th 2014
I have been silently following since you started and I have to say congrats. Small words and maybe used to often but what you have done is amazing. I look forward to more but am glad that you have let so many of us listen in on your journey.
# clawingthruthepack, February 8th 2014
Just brfilliant.
# Ralph Thomas, February 8th 2014
Hello,Ben and Tarka ,
first of all ,congratulations for your successful expeditiion .The world is proud of you ,so i am.
I wish you an unforgetable party and finally a real bed ,a real chair ,a real warm shower,and a tasty and commode dinner at a warm fire place.You guys really deserve it.
I was an really interessted follower since i read the article in our newspaper in mid october of 2013 when you startet your trip.I hope i will hear some new adventures of you in the future.
Thank you for the the time i could spend with your reports.
Best wishes and reguards from Ralph Thomas ,near Cologne Germany.