Tracking
the Journey

  • Distance to go: 0 Mi
    Distance

    Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.

    Distances here are shown in statute miles.

The Final Steps (and Reaching Forward…)

Apologies for the delay in sending this update - it turned out to be a very long day indeed and I've only just had a couple of hours' sleep...

Antarctica seemed livid at the fact we were lying happily in our tent yesterday morning, eating well and contemplating our final few kilometres, and it went furiously about trying to bury us and our few belongings with spindrift, and occasionally as far as trying to shake our tent down and blow it away completely. The wind was gusting to nearly 50 knots, the hiss and spray of the snow hitting the windward end of our shelter sounded like heavy rain on a fast-moving car's windscreen, and erratic, gusts made the taut fabric boom and rumble with an alarming violence. It occurred to me that we were lying almost the precise distance away from Scott Base as Scott lay from One Ton Depot, and I thought of him as I lay there in the storm, trying to keep fear from creeping into my thoughts.

What to tell you of yesterday? We dismantled our green Hilleberg Keron tent -home for fifteen weeks now- in the early evening, as soon as the blizzard seemed to abate a little, and headed on a bearing towards a snow airstrip called William's Field (Willy's Field to the locals) and then on to the rough ice road that links the airfield with Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. We had been given two forecasts that suggested worst weather tomorrow, so we forced ourselves out of our sleeping bags and into the cold air once more. Low cloud and windblown snow blocked our view of almost all of the mountains and volcanoes that surround us, but we caught occasional snatched glimpses of Castle Rock and Observation Hill as we descended towards the sea. The wind came at us from our left, and our light sledges were blown out to our right-hand sides at crazy angles as we leant forwards and shoulder-barged our way into it, staying warm by skiing with short strides and a fast cadence, driving hard with our arms. It was weather that on any other day would have been miserable, but today it brought a grin inside the warm depths of my jacket hood rather than a gritted-teeth grimace; it can't stop us now, I told myself, and it obviously knows it.

After an hour we started to make out the huts and vehicles and flags of Willy's Field, and soon after that we were on the ice road that leads to Scott Base and McMurdo beyond. Skiing well past midnight, on a beautiful hard-packed surface, things started to get surreal. We skied past (and waved at) a fat seal, squirming along the side of the road in the opposite direction. A red US National Science Foundation truck approached us after a few more minutes, and I half-lifted a ski pole as a wave. The driver (Chris, from Charleston, South Carolina) stopped, clambered out and surprised us with an incredibly warm welcome. Thank you Chris; you cheered us up immensely on what was becoming a never-ending plod from flag to flag!

As we rounded the corner towards Scott Base, we could finally see the sea of McMurdo Sound, and hear the (glorious!) sound of waves lapping at the nearby shore. I thought I could make out a figure walking our way, to where the road turned from ice to rock; the transition from sea to land and our finish line for this giant trek. "Wait a minute", said Tarka, "There are a few more coming down the hill". It turned out to be almost the entire crew from Scott Base -and a few others from McMurdo- turning out to wave us over the line, on what was a chilly, windy afternoon. I was expecting a quiet finish, and was totally overwhelmed by the warmth of the reception we had from this wonderful gang.

Emotionally, Tarka and I are still numb and exhausted, and we are doing little more than eating and sleeping around the clock now. That he and I are here at all, at the end of this journey, with an unbroken 1,795-mile looping ski track behind us, is something I owe to an awful lot of wonderful people and companies that have carried on believing in me and in this dream, often for many years, and often when it seemed time and again that all hope of even starting it had been lost. There are too many to list and thank in one blog post, but I want to extend as much gratitude as I can wring out of clumsily-chosen words to Land Rover and Intel for breathing life into this expedition, and for making everything you have read about for the past four months possible. I also want to thank KCOM, Drum Cussac, CF Partners, Mountain Equipment, Bremont, GSK, Hilleberg and Field Notes.

My UK-based team have borne me humbly and tirelessly on their shoulders for so long, and I'm sending my sincerest love and thanks to Andy, Chessie, Tem, Gillie and Ryan. Further afield, I'm indebted to Jerry Colonna, Tony Haile, Al Humphreys, Martin Hartley, Anthony Goddard, Steve Jones (and the entire ALE team), Kate Bosomworth, James Lindeman, Alistair Watkins, Stuart Dyble and Philip Stinson.

Tarka and I are both so thankful to our loved ones and to our friends for being there for us always, and for putting up with us not being there for them for so long.

Lastly, I want to acknowledge my brilliant companion for the past three-and-a-half months of suffering and striving, the inimitable Monsieur L'Herpiniere. He has been reliable to the very end of the world, and to the very limits of endurance; both an anchor and a lighthouse in every storm this expedition has weathered. And even if no one had ever heard about this journey; if we had skied in secret, the chance to spend so long in this man's company is something I'm truly grateful for, and I can only hope that, long after we return home, I can continue to learn from and emulate his indomitable spirit, his stoicism in the face of deep discomfort and struggle, his generous and modest nature, and his remarkable self-reliance. He is, to borrow John Ridgway's highest accolade, a good man.

Right now it's time for more food and sleep, but I'll write again soon. Thank you all so much for following, for thinking of us, and for your messages and comments. With my brain addled and dulled by so much hard physical work and by so little in the way of rest and recovery, it's often been a struggle to do this journey justice in words and I fear I've fallen short on many occasions, but I hope you've enjoyed the story. Perhaps the best line I can think of to end on today is a piece of advice Tarka gave me several weeks ago on improving my skiing technique, but it's something that holds true for pretty much everything in life: "With each step, try to reach a bit further forward than you think you can".

Comments

# Mary Modroo, February 8th 2014

Way. To. Go.

# Intrepid, February 8th 2014

Reaching farther, stretching further, growing beyond what has settled into being, and to let come, is a really good way to live. Equally important is living without having to fill up every indomitable point in the space of our minds with something.  Sometimes it’s just good to let be. These ways of going about living are not at odds, they are simply expressions of what is important ... as that which is always right in front of you. Always turn towards resistance and reach forward.  We are all on a journey, pushing the limits of what we might be willing to not let happen.

Dear Ben and Tarka,

The last few months were remarkably satisfying. Reading and responding to your daily posts created the experience of indirect involvement in your journey. It was absolutely, with utter abandon, wonderful!! With the greatest of respect and the deepest of care,

In salutation to your accomplishments,

Make it always a safe trip home.

# Don Kisler, February 8th 2014

Ben and Tarka congratulations on your amazing accomplishment .  I have been following your journey each morning from my home here in the northwest corner of Montana.  Each morning I have eagerly looked forward to your daily posting and now I will feel a sense of loss that your expedition is finished.  I cannot imagine how you did what you did but it is truly a testament to your tenacity and skill that is beyond even the greatest of athletes anywhere in the world. I look forward to reading more about your feat when you make it available in the future.  Thank you for the fantastic blog.
Don Kisler

# Sharyle, February 8th 2014

Congratulations to both of you on your magnificent achievement!  It’s been a privilege to read the blog and watch your progress. Ben, you are an eloquent writer. Wonderful postings even when you were exhausted. Thank you for letting us follow along vicariously.  You are both my heroes.  Cheers from Florida!

# Anton Uhl, February 8th 2014

Congratulations and thank you from the depths of our hearts for finding the courage and taking the time to share so much of your incredible journey with the rest of the world!
Though you have inspired so many of us for so long with your bravery, imagination and generosity of spirit, may this victory be yours to enjoy, to fill your own hearts and to carry you through the rest of your days with joy and grace, dear Ben and Tarka.

# bee, February 8th 2014

Fabulous…congratulations on this amazing achievement.
I, like so many others, will miss your daily posts.
Thank you again for taking us along on this adventure.
Wishing you safe travels on your journey home back to your loved ones.

# Jörg, February 8th 2014

YEEEEHHAAAA!!!!! You did it!!

# Barbara B from Clinton, CT USA, February 8th 2014

Welcome home, Ben and Tarka.
Congratulations!

# Nick Webb, February 8th 2014

I’m going to miss my visits to the Antartic almost everyday…..modern technology has made it possible to almost feel like we were close by.  This is a one off achievement (until your next I’m sure) and you guys are like superheroes out there…..kids need to hear this story!  Well done chaps and enjoy the celebrations!

# Josue, February 8th 2014

Well done !

# Geoff Harper, February 8th 2014

So utterly inspirational.

# Marcel from Amsterdam, February 8th 2014

Congratulations! Followed your amazing trek almost from the start. Can’t believe you made it across the cold and oxygen deprived high plateau. Let this one stand for another 100 years.

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