Tracking
the Journey

  • Distance to go: 0 Mi
    Distance

    Ben and Tarka will cover 1800 miles starting from Scott's Terra Nova Hut at the edge of Antarctica to the South Pole and back to the coast again. That's equivalent to 69 back-to-back marathons hauling up to 200kg each (the weight of roughly two adult men) of kit and supplies necessary to survive.

    Distances here are shown in statute miles.

Adios Beardmore (Day 87)

Posted January 19th 2014,
by Ben Saunders

Category: Expedition, The Return Journey

Day 87: S83° 42' 59.65", E170° 44' 11.76"

Duration: 9 Hr

Daily distance: 24.5 Mi

Distance to go: 442.1 Mi

Temperature: -4 °C

Wind chill: -12 °C

Altitude: 1168 Ft

Today's tale was rather different to yesterday's. The wind was still blowing this morning though its ferocity had waned, and it calmed even further to give us a gentle tailwind all day as we travelled under the clearest of blue skies. We started the day on crampons but the depth of the surface snow cover increased as we descended and we were able to switch to skis after an hour or so, staying on them for the remainder of the day.

The surface was patchy and crusty until mid-way through the afternoon, hiding a great deal of crevasses, though our skis were "against the grain" and the widest were only a few feet across, and almost all closed-up by snow bridges, so we sped along with our skis safely spanning the gaps. Since about 3pm, we've had much deeper snow and much easier terrain as Mount Hope came into clear view and we neared the vast mouth of this giant glacier.

We covered just shy of 25 miles (40km) today and we're parked just over 4 miles (7km) away from our depot, which we'll pick up tomorrow morning before climbing up and through the Gateway, the small col that Shackleton identified as a safe route from the Ross Ice Shelf on to the Beardmore.

After swearing yesterday that we hated this place and that we were never coming back, I felt surprisingly emotional as we approached the final stretch of the glacier this evening, especially as I looked back along our tracks towards the Cloudmaker. The Beardmore - both the ascent and the descent - was the part of this journey that held the most fear and apprehension for me, and also the only part where I felt my experience lagged substantially behind Tarka's (who lives in the Alps and has spent hundreds of days on glaciers, both there, in Patagonia and in the Himalayas) so it's been an extraordinary learning curve, and an experience that has at times pushed me a long way beyond my comfort zone.

I suspect, like a microcosm of this entire expedition, that it will be an experience that was pretty hellish for most of the time I was going through it, but one that I'll look back on fondly (from a comfortable armchair, by a fire) as one of the most special times of my entire life.

Comments

# CaninesCashews, January 20th 2014

Hi guys,

As Dinah used to say ‘what a difference a day makes’!!

What an amazing effort to almost see the back of Beardmore in only five days. Please take care on the last part of the descent through the Gateway.

My hope for both of you is that you will be able to retain all these wonderful new experiences and memories, letting them ferment over time to be recollected in much comfort for years to come.

Also I wonder how many echoes of Scott’s team carried on those winds at your tail yesterday?

Onward.

Stay safe.
Gav

# Mal Owen, January 20th 2014

That last sentence brought echoes of Richard’s book to mind :-)

# CaninesCashews, January 20th 2014

Praise indeed!

# Richard Pierce, January 20th 2014

I’m blushing now.

And want more people to read it. :-)

I’m so chuffed at the boys’ efforts yesterday, and it doesn’t look like they’re holding back this morning either.

R

# Janet Stanley, January 20th 2014

Good to see this blog’s title! As Richard mentioned don’t get complacent…Antarctica’s environment is unforgiving as you know! Good going again, stay safe :)

# wonderwoman, January 20th 2014

Dear Ben and Tarka, thank you for the wonderful news today. Hoping for clear skyes and not too much wind we send you love from Finland and pray for you.

# Phil Satoor, January 20th 2014

I wonder what it is about blue skies that seems to lift the spirit.  Anyway, here’s a question: do you receive weather forecasts for your locale and if so, was yesterday’s storm predicted?

# Anthea Henton, January 20th 2014

Ben, your writing yesterday was brilliant, harrowing, chilling but brilliant. It felt like the spirit of the Beardsmore that was bruising, and testing you so thoroughly, had given those of us reading a sly flick of it’s tail, and a flash of it’s teeth.

I’m bouncing on my seat reading how well today went. brfilliant (#Richard I still love that word).  Perhaps, that malevolent spirit that you speak of has realised that it cannot have you, there are too many souls alongside you, watching your steps, willing you homewards to loved ones and China mugs.

Sleep well and grub up tomorrow.

# Uncle Pete, January 20th 2014

mid morning UK time - looks like you have done your pick up and moved on - reminds me of my old train sets that picked up the mail sacks in passing! We will be anxiously watching your progress over the col which, as can be seen from your outward posts, still has some tricks to play so continue watchful and aware - keep safe to the other side.

# JB, January 20th 2014

A suggestion for a new walking mantra:

Beardmore no more. <breath> beardmore no more. breath ...

Best of luck for the remaining miles.

Cheers,
JB

# Andy Lawrence, January 20th 2014

Brilliant to hear this and a monster day yesterday. If it was possible to go and wait at the finish line I’d be on my way there now

# Richard Pierce, January 20th 2014

Looks like they’ll be at the Gateway in another hour (it’s now 13:48 GMT). Fingers crossed for you, boys. R

# Intrepid, January 20th 2014

Tales of your expedition will indeed go on and on.  I can’t imagine ever forgetting being a part of this blog: the suspense of knowing you are okay, the anticipation of reading your daily posts, the pictures in my mind your words have created—- a little taste of what it was really like. My great-grandchildren (I hope) will all know about your expedition!!!

Dear Ben and Tarka,

I have to say my nerves are a little tweaked and my belly is up in my mouth after reading your description about skiing over crevasses and snow covered bridges.  I’m amazed by how simple and safe you can make it sound! Always great to hear you are safe as well as in very good spirits.

Hoping today goes without incident through the gateway and onto the shelf.

Best to you both.

# Pete Vassilakos, January 20th 2014

Wow, I missed the whole journey!  Considering how much of a nut I am for these things, I can’t believe I never heard of this expedition!
Every year, I go through my Antarctic/arctic expedition/explorer phase. I get so hooked on all these stories, Shackleton, Scott, Amundson, Peary, and Cook, Mawson and Franklin, and now…...Ben and Tarka. You guys are amazing, and as much as I know I would never be able to have enough endurance or mental strength to get through something like this, I find myself compelled by what you are doing, and wishing I was there. I have such strong compassion for this stuff. I guess it is reflected in my art work. At least I can so that! Haha. For all of you who share this strange fascination with polar exploration and history, check out my web site! You might like what I do! Ben, Tarka…. You rock! Get this done so you can enjoy a juicy burger and a thick cold beer! Best wishes you guys!!!

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